Timing rod setup ?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: Timing rod setup ?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By samuel pine on Monday, November 04, 2013 - 01:08 pm:

Although I should know this but I caught CRS disease
I got 2 inches down on the spark lever for a good
start up. Leave the comm. there and bend the spark
rod to fit the comm. or is there a rule of thumb.
I'm kind of running out of advance. Another interesting thing is, I have yet to hear any coil
buzz when I go to start. Am I 180 out or something?
My last car always buzzed when I turned it on, but
thats an old memory. so Im thinking upon shut down
the commutator always lands or stops on the bakelite. All cars I had back in the day; always some coil buzzed when I turned the ign. on. This one never. But it runs fine so maybe I'm over guessing. More explained I got four fingers just
to start it, so I know its off. I only remember
putting the lever full up then couple notches down to start.

the older you get the more brain dead you get thats iritating
sam


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Eagle Ida Fls on Monday, November 04, 2013 - 01:23 pm:

I always start the engine with the spark up all the way. I adjust the rod so the commutator is in the right spot when the spark lever is all the way up.
It depends where the engine stops as to whether a coil buzzes or not.
Hope this helps.
Rich


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter Claverie on Monday, November 04, 2013 - 01:46 pm:

You asked about a rule of thumb.

The rule is: With the spark lever all the way up, timer disconnected from the rod, turn the engine until the cylinder about to fire is at Top Dead Center, then turn the crank a couple of degrees more. Turn the timer by hand until the coil just starts to buzz. Then bend the rod until it drops right into the hole, and button it up.

Here's the theory: There should be no mechanical possibility that the timer will make contact before the piston reaches Top Dead Center and begins its downward travel, as long as the spark lever is all the way up. But, the closer to TDC it fires with the lever up, the easier it will be to start.

If I read your post correctly, you normally start the engine with the lever 2" down. That implies to me that if you put it all the way up, it can fire before TDC. This is dangerous! Not only can it break your arm, but if you have a starter, it can break the Bendix spring, or bend the starter shaft, or take teeth off the flywheel. None of these is good!

As for the coils buzzing when you turn the key on, it is normal for an engine that is slowing down to stop, to actually stop right about the time a cylinder reaches Top Dead Center, because that's when the resistance to turning is greatest. Given the mass of iron that's turning, it is also normal for it to come to rest just after TDC. That is when the coil should begin to buzz, with the lever all the way up. And that's when, if conditions are right, you get a "free start."

You can sometimes pull the lever down and make a coil buzz, but that is because you have moved the timer to Before Top Dead Center. And that's the dangerous place. If you should do that, and there's enough vapor in the cylinder to fire, it will buck the engine backwards. You can't get a "free start" before TDC, because of this.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By samuel pine on Monday, November 04, 2013 - 02:04 pm:

That a boy Peter, just what I figure, my rods way
off. No I get no free starts from this one my last
1922 always got free starts. thanks Pete.
going ta tweek it
sam


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donnie Brown on Tuesday, November 05, 2013 - 09:19 am:

Samuel: If you have changed to a different make of timer you will need to re-set the timer rod. This is especially true with the new day timer. Original style timers can be set with the little timer gauge tool that sets the rod spaced from the clamp bolt to the rod (2 inches I think) I have CRS also. If you use the gauge on the new days you will be way off.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Tuesday, November 05, 2013 - 11:56 am:

Talking about free starts. Last week we were ready to start a rebuilt engine. It was very hard to turn the crank and after we had pulled on it a few times decided to pull the car with a rope till it started. As I was positioning the truck in front of the T, my friend turned on the ignition of the T and it actually coughed. If the engine had been looser he would have had a "free start" Well! we pulled the car and it started right up. My friend said, "you must not have hooked up the throttle rod, because the gas lever doesn't do anything." Then he realized that he hadn't turned on the gas. After turning on the gas, it started right up, and we haven't had to pull it again.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erich Bruckner, Vancouver, WA on Tuesday, November 05, 2013 - 12:44 pm:

Norm, I am laughing with you. Gas on = much better....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Tuesday, November 05, 2013 - 09:02 pm:

All my Ts are different. The timing lever varies as much as 4 notches between them. I just live with it rather than fiddle with the linkage to get them all back to hard against the stop.

On initial set-up all I do is park the timer with the connection at 5 o'clock { 11 o'clock for you LHD types } and position the lever against the stop. Then I simply bend the linkage rod to make it fit at those settings. Usually, this results in a little too much retard,hence the variation at the quadrant. However, this is the safe side of any adjustment.

Hope this helps.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By samuel pine on Wednesday, November 06, 2013 - 05:07 am:

Thanks, my plan didnt work, which was placing
my lever for a good start (retarded) and bend the
rod so it goes in the timer hole. Nope; no clearance to get the rod out, means I have to pull out the timer a little to get the rod out. Worse
yet I had to get my kid to put the kotter pin back.
Just to think once upon a time I use to pull these
engines alone hanging off an oak tree Now I cant put a kotter pin in without help thats total B.S.


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