The brake linings I bought recently came with these little brass tubular rivets. After installing them, I don't like their looks. They appear pretty flimsy to me. I'm wondering if I should replace them with the split rivets used for band linings. Anybody have experience with both?
Mine did fine but I used a little different technique. See photos.
Looks like the ones I got were a bit different design. They did work great. Came from Langs.
I would do like Erich shows in his photos. Use the correct brake rivets. Do a google search of brass brake rivets.
The bottom of hollow part of the rivet should be just below the surface it's being riveted to.
Put the solid head on the outside and the hollow part on the inside. I would counter sink just enough to put the head of the rivet just below the surface of the lining as it's not too thick.
I used split rivets. They, to my surprise, worked well and looked good 9 years later.
Installation, prepping the lining.
The actual rivets I used.
Those rivets in your pictures look like poo. I would not use them.
Where can you get the "stepped" drill bit for this job?
Those rivets are not very good for the importance of the function they are being used for. They look very flimsy and the heads are not flat enough to lay below the surface of the linings so they will not be sheared off. I use the traditional copper (or brass) tubular rivets which are alot better made and stronger for such a crucial position and I countersink the face of the lining deep enough (only about a 1/32") so the head of the rivet will clear the surface of the lining. With the head on the lining side, it only stands to reason that the bradded tubular portion goes on the steel side. JIm Patrick
PS. I use the same techniques and tubular rivets for my Guinn wooden transmission linings as well. I much prefer tubular rivets over split rivets, which I feel cannot be made tight enough
PS. As noted, you will need to make a bit for countersinking the heads of the rivets. You can use the very cheap countesink bits with the widest portion, about the same diameter as the rivet head. Bits are stamped and pressed, not the expensive machined type. Jim Patrick
PPS. Don't forget to grind the angle flat with a Dremel tool before using. To use an angled countersink will take out the material needed to hold secure the band and I believe a stepped bit will also take out too much material, leaving only a small shelf for the rivet head to hold on to. Jim Patrick
Steve we have the correct split rivets in stock, Bob
Whose lining did you purchase that had those rivets included ?
I got those from Lang's in September. But I expect other dealers will have them from the same supplier. I intend to give them a heads-up on this so they can come up with something sturdier. After this I'll ask about the rivets when I order linings.
I used an ice pick to punch the hole, then push the rivet through. Using a split rivet, I use a screw driver to spread the rivet. Having a piece of round bar stock mounted in my vice, I turn the band over with the split end of the rivet on the bar stock and tap the rivet till the split ends of the rivet are securely imbedded in the lining.
Those don't even look like rivets. They look like eyelets. You should have used an eyeletter machine to set those.
Steve, Jim is right, you need to replace those weird rivets with correct hollow rivets, they have the flat head to sink into the brake lining, and the hollow end is smashed to the metal brake band to secure the lining.
One of the most important things to know about brake lining rivets is to NEVER use steel rivets. It is not just the hardness of the steel against the brake drums. Far more important is that water (or even humidity) will get to the steel rivets and result in rust (paint won't help because the braking heat will burn it off). Iron oxide (rust) is an abrasive used on some sand papers. It flakes off the rusty rivets and becomes embedded in the linings where they grind their way through the brake drums.
Check all brake lining rivets with a magnet.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2