I have a 1921 Model T Touring
Casting Mark 11-9-21
I need help identifying this accessory that was installed on this car at some point. It is located near the back of the front floor boards and just to the right of the starter button (when sitting in the seat).
It has two rectangle holes in the floor plate and under the car, is a lever of some type with a spring attached. The spring action works when you pull the lever towards the starter button terminals.
I have included pictures of this device in hopes someone can tell me what the heck this thing is and does.
That's for an exhaust whistle.
Wow thanks for the quick reply. I never would have guessed that! I did some searching around the net and found an older Aermore that looked somewhat like the same Floor plate and lever I have, (from a previous Ebay ad)
Anyone know what Brand or year my model is or what parts to look for to make it complete?
Macs sell them
More likely it was originally for an exhaust cutout. The Aermore whistles were sold and did use that type of pedal back in the day, but they were not as common as a cutout.
How much performance improvement did you get with a cutout?
That is for an exhaust cutout. It appears to be the locking type. I can not see the "teeth" on the plunger rod, but it looks like some I have that do. You should have either a round button above the floor on top of the lever, or a t-handle for hand use. The locking type were useally used for the cutouts to hold the cutout open or in several different positions (1/4 open 1/2 open, ect) If used for the aermore whistles, they useally were not locking type as you need to use your foot to "stroke" the exhaust valve to get the "train whistle effect". As to power improvement it was probley marginal at best. There were probably 100s of different brands of exhaust cutouts.
We also sell them and I have the aermore whistle on t-bay right now,Bob
Tom: A few years ago when Tom Graham was checking cars on his dynometer at a tour in Minnesota, we ran my car with the stock exhaust and then with the cutout open. Tom informed me that it made no difference on the machine readings! So much for thinking I was getting a little more power......
I have a cutout on my TT. Regardless of the truth, what's important is that it makes me believe I'm getting a little more power.
My Dad told us about cutting a hole in the bottom of the exhaust pipe and welding an old carb over it so it pointed straight down to the road.
When you pass another car you could open the choke on the carb and it would blow dust from the road so the car behind would have to slow down.
T-day road rage?
Just a casual observation:
Exhaust whistle pedals typically have a longer throw than cutout pedals.
Also, as Donnie Brown posted, cutout pedals usually have a locking feature while exhaust whistle pedals do not.
Thanks for all the replys everyone.
What is the second smaller hole for in the floor plate of my first picture. I can tell the first larger rectangular hole is for the Foot pedal and shaft to go through but I am not sure what went into the second hole. I am also not sure if this Pedal was a locking type because the pedal and shaft are missing.
One observation is that the lever action pulls to the driver side of the car and not to the front of the car like most of the exhaust whistles I have seen mounted up in pictures. Could this be a case for this device being an Exhaust Cutout?
I was able to really get a good look at this device this last time I crawled under the car. The smaller hole in the floor plate is just above the lever pivot point. This pivot point is not your typical punched flap of metal that I have seen in some of the after market pictures but two stout arms that hold the pivot pin for the lever. The small hole looks like it was placed above to possibly make oiling the pivot shaft easier. The spring hangs in the middle of the two floor plate holes on its own hanger. I looked for wear near the edge of the lip where a locking pedal might have locked but I did not see anything that jumped out at me.
Here is a better picture of the hanging pieces that I am describing.
Thanks for the Help
The piece you are missing is the plunger. It will have teeth in it and a round cap for your foot to push on or I have seen it with a T handle to pull/push with your hand. In the pic. the cutout handle will be in the up position. The cutout on the exhaust will be in the closed position. All the teeth on the plunger will be above the floor. The plunger with teeth is a loose fit in the slot. When you push down on the plunger it causes the arm to swing back and either push/pull a rod or a cable, depending on the style of cutout on the exhaust pipe you have. While pushing it down you let it rock forward to engage the teeth, they engage the trim plate on top of the floor, and the spring tension will hold it in the chosen position anywhere from closed to full open. When you want to close the cutout just tap it with your foot again to disengage the teeth, the spring will pull the plunger back up into the closed position. (you need to keep the teeth from engaging as the plunger comes back up) There is useally another spring located to help pull the rod or cable attached to the cutout. If I was home at this time I could post a pic of several different types.
Looking at the hanging piece and the floor plate I don't see allot of wear on the locking side of the floor plate (where a lock might have been used) and I also don't see another spot for a spring to pull the locking pedal back from locking.
I am starting to think this might have been put in this car for an exhaust whistle. Still not positive on that. Are there any whistles that use a side pulling baffle?
Here's one exactly like your, Adam. The other is a NOS one I have. I've not seen too many with "teeth" as Donnie is referring to - I have several with the just a notch as shown.
It might have been for a whistle, Adam. Your's is just missing the pedal piece.
I've seen the same type (I have 1 on my '14 Touring for an Aermore whistle) with a small pulley screwed into the passenger side rear panel so as to pull more evenly.
Wow hey thats it! Do you know the brand of this setup? Are the pedals easy to find?
You can have the one like yours. Send me a private e-mail.
I see you are from the Great State of Montana - I have family roots & current family there !
Method employed for operating the whistle or cut-out.
Steve , good pics. I have seen them with notches and teeth. All the original whistles I have seen have non locking pedals, I have seen locking pedals used with whistles, but you have to be carefull not to lock it up and have a continous blowing whistle. The purpose of the cutout is to give you an open exhaust with no back pressure from the muffler. In that case you would want to have the pedal lock up and hold the flap open. I have several different kinds of NOS whistle setups. All of them use a non locking pedal as part of the kit. Adam you can make the plunger for you pedal or buy them from Langs Bobs or Macs they also sell the aermore style whistles and cutouts for them. I like the aermore style whistle as its fun to make them sound like a train whistle on the T
What if any is the power gain when using a cutout?
I've never noticed a leap in power, but, I like the sound with both ears up ! You can hear each cylinder fire.
Climbing a hill I notice you can go a little farther in high gear before shifting into low gear if you open the cutout.