Does anyone have any experience with the Sure Stop Hydraulic Disk Brakes sold by Texas T Parts? How good are they? Any installation problems?
Jon, i have them on two cars, another club member has three sets, my first set came from Bill Tharp the original designer and producer, they have worked flawlessly for several years, the can be a bear to get all the air out of the lines but that is the only problem i have encountered. They will stop going forward, backward and when wet, if you ride the brake on long or steep hills they don't fade or get hot. If you want good brakes for todays traffic this is the way to go.
Thanks, Rick. Did you have to make your own hydraulic lines? I have just received a Sure Stop Kit, but there are no lines with it. I will be installing it this winter.
Jon, they should have lines with them they are coiled in the box, call Ben or Linda at TTP and they will get them right out to you.
To bleed them, you might consider removing the caliper and raising it above the level of the master cylinder with a spacer where the rotor should be. I had a heck of a time getting some motorcycle brakes bled once. The only way I was able to do it was to remove the master cylinder from the handlebar and get it below the front caliper so the air bubble would rise to the caliper where the bleeder was.
Rick, Thanks for the info. The lines ARE in the box - I just missed them. They were in the bottom coiled up like you said.
Maybe I need some "Senior Moment" Pills...
I have installed two sets of those brakes on my cars. They work very well and are night-and-day more effective than stock T brakes.
The only complaint I have heard about them from anyone is that they "don't look right" on a Model T. I agree with that. But for a car which you intend to drive in today's traffic, safety trumps originality in my book.
How about some installed pictures? Thanks, Dan
There's no way the master should be air bound if mounted level but if you have a problem with air bound calipers do the following: with the caliper off the mounting bracket put the pad that goes against the piston in place and put a small block of wood where the disc goes (or hold it back with a C-clamp) to prevent it from popping out of the bore. Hold the caliper with the bleeder straight up so the air can escape while some one else does the pedal action for you. It's not necessary to stand on the pedal. Light pumping works just as well. You're just evacuating air & replacing it with fluid. You MUST prevent the piston on the other caliper from popping out (on a 2 wheel system) so it has to be locked in also just like the one you're bleeding.
Along with the disc brakes you need to install a LED third brake light for safety. I installed one on my touring and it is a big improvement on visibility in traffic when stopping. Even on 6 volts it is a bright as a new car's LED third brake light The unit is 3/4" high by about 10",maybe 3/4" deep. It can mount with suction cups to a glass window. or has 2 screw holes to mount it. It is black, and really un-noticeable on the car. It also is split into two sides so it will also function as turn signals. Very easy to splice in if you already have electric brake light(s) added
I cannot think of the manufacturer, but the box and installation instructions are on the bench at home, I can post later today.
Dan -- There are some pics on this thread:
It sounds like the "Brakelighter". I got mine at Hershey for the Model A. Not that it can't be modified, but mine lends itself to mounting inside to a window better than trying to mount it outside to the back of an open car. I brought this up to the guy who said he may look into another version that could be magnetically attached.
Mike - I noticed the flex lines on the ends of the hydraulic lines in the thread that you mentioned, and it seems to me like that might make it easier to bleed the system(?). That is, by elevating the ends so that the bubbles would rise instead of having to be below the master cylinder. Would they be useful in that regard? I'm pretty much new to this hydraulic brake stuff, so I am looking for solutions that might not work...?
There is a bleed fitting on the master cylinder and the flex lines are now offered by TTP you just need to purchase some 30" lines from NAPA to replace the 40" in the kit.I have two sets of flex lines to install this winter, just having the caliper hang down from the front bolt should allow the air from the lines to migrate up, i use a vacuum pump to help.
Jon -- I didn't have any difficulty bleeding the lines, so I don't know whether it would help you or not. Someone a while back mentioned that he used flex lines on his homemade disc setup, and I thought it was a good idea. For instance, if you need to pull the rear wheel for some reason, you'll need to remove the caliper first. The flex lines will allow you to do that without bending the solid lines. I mentioned that to Ben and sent him some part numbers for the ones I used, and apparently he has acted on it, at least to some extent.
If anybody decides to yank their small drum AC brakes to install discs, I'd be interested in your old AC brake setup, please PM me, thanks.