Well I am making progress on my 1926 after a year being ill. Thanks to many folks help I got the new rear wheel on the drivers side rear. Looks real good. Now I need to tow it into the garage from outside so I can get the rings and valves, and transmission bands done before the snow hits. Unfortunately, the rear wheel will not turn 9see skid marks in picture) History, rear hub was removed with the Model T wheel puller without any real difficulty. When i went to replace the same rear brake hub, I checked the brake paw was horizontal with brake lever off. the brake though did seem too big slightly to have the drum slide over the brakes. What i did, was to carefully position the hub touching the brake liner edges, and where it would not fit, gently tapped the liner edge with a screw driver and light hammer, until the drum could be forced over the brake liner using two wood clamps. The clamps were slowly and evenly tightened until the drum was over the brake. obviously it seems the brake liner is too tight inside the drum for the wheel to turn. As I said the brake paw was horizontal. Oh well patience.
Never mind for now. On closer observation of the drive way, once I blew leafs away, both rear wheels are skidding. When I was doing the rings a year ago, I just put the rod caps on rough before plastiguaging with the spacers. The engine was too tight to turn So no wonder the rear wheels would not turn! So now the car is in the garage, dry and ready to be worked on thank goodness.
You should not have to use force to slide the wheels over the shoes. I would go back to the brakes and fix them so the drums slide over'em. If the clutch was in neutral then the wheels should not lock up.
The break shoes look like after market lined ones. I had the same trouble a few years ago. I don't remember what I did but I think I found that
I needed to find orig. shoes that would fit correctly and all was fine. mine were on a small drum. Just an idea to check.
Too tight is not always better. With the brake lever in the neutral position, jack up both rear wheels. They should spin freely without much drag. If the clutch is dragging one rear wheel will move forward while the other moves in reverse. If they are tight while both are jacked up, your brakes are too tight.
The engine should be loose enough to turn with the hand crank. If you have not driven it since you replaced the rings and tightened the rod bearings, it will be hard to turn with the crank, but it should still turn. If not, you need to go back inside and adjust the rod bearings. Try loosening all the bolts holding the caps and then tighten one bearing. It should be adjusted so that if you remove one shim it is too tight, then replace one shim and it should turn easily. Be sure the cap is on correctly. The rods and caps are usually numbered on the side facing the camshaft. Both numbers should be on the same side when the cap is installed. Run up the bolts until they are finger tight and then give a tap on both sides to center the cap on the crankshaft and torque to 30 ft lbs. Install the cotter pins. I like to fit each rod bearing and then back up the nuts just a little and go to the next bearing, fit it, etc until all 4 are fitted. Then torque and place the pins. That way, you will feel the amount of drag on each bearing separately. Be sure to pour some oil into the transmission and the rest into the front oil filler. The engine should then be ready to start.
Another thing which can cause drag on the rear wheels is wear in the taper of the end of the axles and inside the hubs. The hub or the bolts holding the spokes will hit the seal on the outside axle bearing or on the bolts holding the radius rods. Best way to find out if this is the cause of the problem would be to install the hub without the key and tighten the nut. Then try the wheel to see if it spins freely. Sometimes if the bolts are too long it will be necessary to grind off some. Leave enough to be able to peen the bolt over the nut. If it doesn't spin freely, but when you back off the nut it will spin freely, place a tapered shim between the axle and the hub. The wheels should be placed with the brake rods disconnected and levers pushed all the way back. After the wheels are placed and torqued, and there is very little drag, then adjust the brakes so that when the lever is pulled back both wheels start to drag together and they both lock up with the same notch on the quadrant.
I don't know if anyone has read David's message but he said to . He found the cause of his skidding wheels and it was not the brakes.
I did and still say if it was in neutral then the wheels should not drag. In ether case if he had to pull the wheels on with C-clamps they are too tight.
"until the drum could be forced over the brake liner using two wood clamps."
I think he needs to buy a shop manual,and read it.
Jack is correct. .....http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html
David, have you covered this? http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG79.html