I bought rebuild parts for my L4 and put on the car. The bottom of the bowl has nut and gasket around the threaded portion that sticks down below the center of the bowl. There is a hole in the center of that male threaded piece. I can't tell whether the steady leak of gas is from the gasket and dripping towards that center hole, or whether the gas is coming from the hole itself. What is that hole in the threaded portion that holds the bowl on and should it be plugged? Is there a piece I'm missing in my rebuild?
The hole you observed is OK, The Float level should be set at 9/16"
The gasket goes on the inside of the bowl and just the nut goes on the outside. It will leak like crazy if the gasket is put on the outside rather then the inside of the bowl.
I think the float setting is 7/16"
Jim,, ahhh thatnk you... I goofed on that one.
I set my float on 3/8" and it is working well.
My problem with this carburetor was the setting of the flapper just before the throttle. I replaced the cork and had to cut it as short as it could be than the carburetor worked well.
As said before, the gasket goes on the Inside of the bowl Under the nut you may add a second gasket.
The hole in the center of the mail threaded piece must be there and have, as I know, 3 functions:
- as overflow as the float valve is leaking.
- If you are priming the engine by hand you should turn the engine till there is some gas dripping by the hole on the ground.
- As the engine is running some air is sucked through the hole in the gas stream and make turbulence in the stream so the gas will mix better with the air.
Should be male threaded part.
Set the float parallel with the carb base when inverted. You'll never have a problem
I just got through working on an L4 which has had a similar problem for quite a long time. I think it is finally fixed. Here are the things I found and what I did.
1. I set the float to 7/16 and it leaked. Then I found the float was all the way to the top again. Upon examination, I found that the tab on the float had been bent so many times that metal fatigue had set in and it was very weak. Just the pressure of the gas would bend it.
2. I found in my extra parts another float which had a good tab. I put that float on and adjusted to 7/16. It leaked worse than the other. I took it out and found that the tab was not hitting the needle squarely, but on an angle, and so it was cocking the needle. I did some bending on the tab and got it to fit squarely against the needle. The problem was solved.
3. What I do with the gasket is wind one turn of string around the male threaded part. I use a very small amount of grease to keep the string in place. Then I place the gasket and then one turn of string around again, then the bowl and the nut. That seems to keep out all leaks.
"My problem with this carburetor was the setting of the flapper just before the throttle. I replaced the cork and had to cut it as short as it could be than the carburetor worked well."
Andre, I found the cork sent from the supplier was so big I had to whittle it down circumference wise to fit the hole in the plug. I didn't shorten it at all, and the engine runs lumpy and tough to accelerate quick while revving it up in the garage. My problem is the brass screw that holds the cork is so stripped i can't get it out to fiddle with the cork now that its all together. I wonder if that is the same symptom you had with it not running right until you cut the cork down?
I tried filing the slot in the brass and tried wide screwdrivers to no avail. It's currently soaking in penetrating oil hoping tomorrow it will let loose. Do they sell replacement brass "cork holding screws' for this carb if i do break this trying? Wow, I wish I had a better vocabulary......