Trying to get my 24 Touring back to as close as original as I can. Everything I have read shows the frame painted semi gloss, but it gets sketchy after that. At what point does the gloss start? Should the rear end and front axle be gloss, steering column, oil pan and other engine parts? I believe the block itself was left cast. Could someone help or point me in the right direction.
I did mine in all gloss Jet Black Imron (Dupont), chassis, running gear, body and all. The mud, grease, dirt and grime does not stick as readily to gloss and it looks great no matter what vantage point you look at it from. Jim Patrick
I painted my frame and rear axle assembly semi gloss but used gloss black Rust-Oleum for the rest of the car. Just what I had to work with. Besides, the rear axle will probably end up gloss black if and when I have to rebuild it. Just my two cents. Good luck with your restoration!
I cannot imagine Henry used two different paints for the running gear and the bodies. I have always used gloss all the way around (except the motor and alum hogs heads.
I use the paint called RustSeal, similar to POR15 in Gloss Black to paint just about everything. It self levels and gives a sprayed finish with enough learned experience. Love it.
Just my two cents, I'm not affiliated with the company but in all honesty, it's the only paint I use. I just got done with the frame, motor and used a few coats on the fenders...followed with rattle can lacquer for better UV protection.
I powdercoated everything I could gloss black, and painted everything else gloss black--except the aluminum hogs head was left natural.
I use Rustoleum satin finish on the running gear (frame, engine, springs, axles, etc.) and gloss on the wheels and body parts.
Chris Elliott prefers gloss over satin:
According to Ford Methods and the Ford Shops, the front axle assembly (I am not sure if it included the spring) was painted and baked twice. I would think that this would result in a gloss finish. From personal experience, I do know that original factory paint is tough to remove from front axles.
The rear axle assembly was dipped in paint. I believe it was also baked but I am too lazy to look in the book.
I do everything on the chassis with Rustoleum gloss black. I use Rustoleum satin on the engine and crankcase. Works for me, but I don't judge my cars either. I just drive them.
I say the shinier the better. Lately I've gone back to good ol' acrylic enamel, managed to get the gloss black DAR 9000 (think that's the number) from PPG. Getting more scarce though.
Rustoleum Gloss. I did use a heat resistant engine paint for the motor. Gloss black also.
The chassis frame, axles and motor and steering parts look best if painted with satin black. The body should be gloss.
All the dipped parts were not glossy.
That's my opinion and the way I do it for customer's.
Henry used something like 5 different black paints on each car. Maybe more. You look it up.
I would paint the block with something, I use satin black, but cast iron looking paint would be alright too, or just spray it with clear.
The fenders were dipped and they were as glossy as a mirror. The frames were glossy enough to show a pretty sharp reflection. Note the stand reflection at the rear of the frame in the foreground.
Henry Ford was all for speed and efficiency. I don't think he used 5 paints, as that would have required more time, more workers, more inventory (and space to store it) and more floor space. One paint would have been more like it and I'd wager that one paint was gloss black. As a matter of fact, paint technology was not what it is today so, I'm not even sure if they had the capacity to make paints in various finishes such as gloss, semi-gloss, satin and flat. "You can have it in any color you want as long as its' black"...not semi-gloss black, not satin black, not flat black, but BLACK. Jim Patrick
Kenny, I guess if you paint your frame so it looks like the frames Mr. Kopsky's photo you'll be right on target. Looks pretty glossy to me.
Interesting that the rear spring, running board brackets, emergency brake, battery box, and battery ground wire are already attached. Battery box screws are galvanized?, not black. What else can you see that I am missing?
From Bruce's Model T Encyclopedia:
There are four main conclusions to be drawn from this investigation. First, the paints used on Model Ts during the black era years of 1914 to 1925 were really color varnishes. These types of paint bear little resemblance to the modern automotive finishes used today when restoring a Model T.
Second, over 30 different types of black paint were used at the same time to paint Model Ts. The different types of paint vary according to the means of drying them (air versus oven drying) and were also formulated to satisfy the different means of applying the paint to the different parts.
Third, Model Ts during the black era were painted using the techniques of brushing, dipping or flowing the paint on. Paint spraying equipment for finishes did not come into widespread use in the Ford factories until 1926.
Fourth, the color black was chosen because it was cheap and it was durable. Black paints, especially those containing asphaltum, were noted for exhibiting better damp proofing properties than other colors during this period. The claim that black was chosen because it dried faster than any other color is not supported by the Ford engineering documents, the contemporary literature, nor by the first-hand accounts of Ford Motor Company employees.
The Model T was a most practical car, and no doubt Henry Ford was convinced that black was simply the most practical color for the job.
Steve strikes again. A perfectly reasonable explanation for the use of black paint by HF & Co.
Not to hi-jack Kenny's thread here, but it might not be too far off of the subject to interject something I've had on my feeble mind for quite some time now:
Most Model "T's, even "show cars" if they are driven at all, especially in climates with some degree of dampness, always seem to show some very unsightly rust on the front end, especially the front spring. It always seemed to me that there should be something that could be used to make the ugly and rusty front end (especially the transverse front leaf spring) look better just before attending a car show, local show-n-shine or club tour. It probably wouldn't last long, but something quicker and easier than paint to just daub on with a rag, brush, dauber or whatever. Preferably something that might have some degree of lubricating benefit besides temporarily "hiding" the ugly rusty appearance of the front spring. Nice black oil with some graphite, carbon or lamp black or something in it maybe? Any ideas,....???
P.S. And before somebody says it,.....yes, I know that graphite oil is a "no-no" around an original Model "T" ignition system, but I'm just talking about something to quickly smear onto the ugly and rusty looking front spring/axle, nowhere near the engine.
A product often used between leaf springs during restoration is called "slip plate" and is sort of paint that contains graphite. Unfortunately all I could buy was silver colored like aluminum paint. What I did was to coat it onto the mating surfaces of the springs with a slight border at the edges that was void of the stuff. I then assembled the spring and painted it as a unit. If "slip plate" comes in a black color I would think that it would be ideal to perhaps thin down a but and brush on for the show. I agree springs look awful if you drive your T much.
After painting spring leaves, I'm applying UHMW tape (picture here: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/392044.html?1380804165). I don't know yet, but I suspect that may prevent some of the rusting between leaves.