I replaced the bands today in the 27 Sport Touring. I bought this a few months ago and it turned into a can of worms. I thought it was a 12 year old restoration with bad paint and a gas tank full of old gas. But then I had to replace the gas tank, rebuild the carb, replace the cam bearings as they were worn .020 in the block and burnt the valves, I did a valve job and installed adjustable lifters. The timing was way off and caused the exhaust manifold to run red hot. The wishbone bolts were cotter keyed and not wired. It had a fiber timing gear and a worn out generator gear that was so rust pitted I swear they found it in the mud of a hog pen somewhere. Of course it chewed up the fiber gear. The waterpump had filled the radiator and block with grease so I had to boil it all out. The underside of the hood was a grease slick and the horn was full of grease. And then today I changed the bands because they were chattering real bad during the few test drives I got to do. The lining was to short. and left voids between each rivet. The pics I attached are of my new bands. I had a set of original Scandanavian and a set of modern Scandinavian. The new ones are to short. They will reach the ends of the bands but there is nothing to hang over or "work into place after riveting each end. Why do the new suppliers do that...??? I like to set my band 1/16 to 1/8 in overhang and still have enough to work into position. I also showed my high tech installation tools. My trusty baseball bat rivet setter and my c-clamp vice grip rivet spreading/setting tool. The vice grip is the best thing I have found to spread and set the rivet. It does a real nice tight and fast job of it. I hope to get the bands in tomorrow after a overnight soak in oil and try the old girl out and see if I gave her a new life. Even after all I had to do, I still love her. She has a rust free body, almost perfect fenders, new tires, new(older) uphoulstery and top. A full set of side curtains. real nice bumpers. Nice set of new powder coated wire wheels. A vacumn wiper and a "Stop" tail light. I hope to only have one thing left to check before touring time and that is the rear end. After all I found Im not sure if it has brass washers in the rear end. Ill have to check them out to have peace of mind. The black paint is lifting from the primer but the primer is stuck very good. Ill do a re-paint in the spring .... Wish her luck ....
Looking good to me! Luck!
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
The pics of the car are before I started working on it. Will post some more as I go. Does anyone know where to get some bands the right length for proper install. That was my last old set for 26 27 and I only have a few more for the earlier cars left. I guess I may have to go to wood or Kevlar.??
I like the way Herm cuts the lining in half and leaves a gap at bottom for oil, I think he saw it in dykes manual,I do mine like this now.
In the research I just posted a "sport touring" was not listed. A sport roadster with grey interior and fawn top YES
Donnie I will look in my 'band stash' and see if I have a 24" wide band. All of my cars use the narrow bands so I may have an extra wide band to trade? for a 24" narrow band?
I have a few sets of Wards bands and used the ones that had the longest bands. From my expierence even the original Scandanavia bands and other brands weren't always cut 24".
On the 21 Touring restoration I am presently doing I used 2 1/2 sets of older original bands to get a set that was 24" long.
They came from 2 sets of Wards and I set of Scandanavia.
I also have a set of original Ford bands and none of the cotton bands in it were over 23 1/4 inches.
Hi: Les, I believe the info you are using is Canada models. There was a sport touring and a sport roadster issued in 26-27 for US production. Im pretty sure there was also a sport touring in Canada. There were differences in Canada and US models. The Canada models came with grey interiors and fawn top boot, and qypsy curtains. I have seen mention of fawn top and interiors also. but not sure where I saw it. The Canada models also used a special screw in various locations, with a square drive head. I can not remember the name of the screws. I do know US production used a black interior and a black top. The top boot and gypsy curtains could be either black or fawn. The standard tourings and roadsters used black and the sport tourings and roadsters used fawn for the top boots and gypsy curtains. I show a pic of the sport touring like mine is.
Well I got around to installing the bands today. It went very easy (almost to easy) and I thought this snake bit can of worms was coming to a end. I put oil in the engine, installed the screen and cover and buttoned her up. All that was left to do was put in water and gas. I filled it up with anti-freeze and was looking for the gas, when I saw the water leak at the back of the head. It was leaking at the rear corner near the exhaust pack nut. So I get to spend the rest of the day pulling the head and replacing the new style head gasket with the red silicone around the water ports (the expensive one) with a copper head gasket I always keep for emergencies. I should have know better than to try the new fangled #$@^&. With the head torqued to 55 pounds it never even mashed the red stuff. I think the little lip around all the openings is too hard and does not compress enough. I installed my old stanby copper gasket with copper-coat sealer and all is well and no leaks. But when I was putting the water/fan neck back on I cracked the bolt ear on it. So I have to take it back off and put another one on. Its all back together now, but I should have stayed in bed. Put gas in her tomorrow and see what happens. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to cure a snakebit can of worms ....