What should be used to clean and oil a Stewart speedometer?
Found the info I was looking for.
Thanks
I was hoping someone with better, more current information would answer by now.
Years ago, phonograph shops sold a special oil for use in servicing phonographs. It takes years to dry out. It sticks a bit but does not become gummy. It was formulated to use on the open pin or spindle bearings. It also works very well in antique clocks.
It should be good for antique speedometers. But you might try to find actual speedometer oil also.
Things like sewing machine oil, three-in-one oil, and many others tend to dry out and become very gummy. Very bad for things like phonograph drives and speedometers. If the oil becomes gummy, parts begin to drag and slow, then something breaks. (Some of these oils contain fish oil, becomes very gummy)
Other oils like WD40 dry out and cease to lubricate way too quickly. No gummy, but same result, something will break.
It take a special type oil to walk that fence-line.
I want to hear what Russ F uses and where to get it. He would know best.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
You posted again while I was typing! I type slow.
Wayne;
Someone can still chime in on this. I didn't really find the info. If I could have removed the post I would have as I decided to list the speedometers on ebay instead of fixing.
Thanks
No problem! I still type slow.
I clean them with mineral spirits and then put in a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.
After everything is working freely I force in as much vasoline as I can.
WD40 should never be used around speedometers, tacs or clocks.
Clock oil after cleaning has always worked well for me.
Clock oil? Never heard of it. I would say that would be the best thing to use in a speedo, and the cable.
I do clock repair as a hobby. Years ago a fellow clock guy suggested I use 5w-30 (synthetic only). I've probably done about 15 clocks since then (cleaning and re-oiling) and they're all still ticking.
Never worked on speedos but don't see why it wouldn't work well.
http://timesavers.com/c-325928-oils-lubricants-oils-lubricants.html
Overall, the best oil for small, fine parts is Hoppes gun oil. It's about five bucks for a little bottle and will last for years. Any gun store has it. (Will I get in trouble for using in the G word on a public forum?)
Stan, guns are part of the reason we have the freedom to have a public forum. Plus, the smell of Hoppes #9 brings back many fine memories.......
Ahhhh... I love the smell of Hoppes oil at 0 dark thirty when you open the gun case, or in the afternoon for some clay shooting!
Mark
See if you can get your Doc to give you a 10cc syringe. Its the perfect applicator.
You can also buy small needle point oilers empty or filled with various fine grade oils from a model railroad supply store. They will place one small drop at a time. I agree Hoppes gun oil is great.
Clocks, rotary-dial telephones, pressure gauges and such used sperm (whale) oil. It does not go rancid; lasts for years. Sperm oil is difficult to find now, but synthetic oil works just as well. Pressure gauges I worked on 20 years ago are doing fine with synthetic oil, by actual inspection. Be sure to use the least amount to lubricate the tiny bearing surface; more is not better. Oil that's not on the actual bearing surface is exposed, and exposed oil collects dust. I use heavy gear oil, applied with the sharp point of a small o-ring puller. Hope this is useful.
I should mention that I use heavy gear oil in above-freezing conditions. I have no experience with these things in use while below freezing.
The watchmaker that lived across the street from me always used Nye Clock Oil on the watches he worked on.