I recently retired at age 74 and am anxious to to complete the speedster project that I started years ago. The engine was rebuilt about fifteen years ago. The transmission was rebushed and assembled, but for some reason the adjustment of the three clutch fingers was not set. I only found this when I discovered that the clutch lever would not clear the cam on the brake lever shaft.
Tightening the screws in the clutch fingers helped, but not enough to quite correct the problem. I think I could probably make it work by tightening the screws some more, but fear the slots in the screws would be below the cotter pins, and that the cotters pins would not hold the screws properly. Also the manual calls for a distance of 13/16" between the face of the clutch plate and the throw out bearing. As best as I can tell, I have reached that point. Any suggestions? Thanks, Ed
Have you done this procedure?
Don't worry about the 13/16ths if you have a new clutch spring, tighten until you have the spring compressed to two inches and you will have no problem. If an original spring, it's any bodies guess as I have checked those that had less than 70 lbs. KGB
I don't know what year transmission you have but the early models have distance plate or disc on top of the clutch assembly. This disc is not well known and frequently lost or not installed. I was luckey to find such a disc at Bakersfield. The vendor had a 5 gallon bucket full of discs and I managed to find one distance disc for my clutch. With out it the fingers would limit out and nothing else could be substituted
Today I broke down and yanked the hogshead off the speedster, and I think I found my problem. It appears to me that the person who rebuilt my transmission installed the clutch shift backwards. I guess this means pulling the engine off the pan, removing the transmission and fixing it. I have read that it is possible to replace the spring by removing the ball cap and working through that opening. If I can remove the spring that way it appears it would be easy to slide the clutch shift off the shaft and turn it around, reinstall the spring , put the hogshead back on and be good to go. My question is what kind of equipment would I need to compress the spring, and would this turn into more work than pulling the engine, Thanks Ed
I have compressed a spring in a vise and wired it. Then after it is installed cut the wire. You might be able to do it with a very strong string. String would be less damaging to the engine/transmission if you couldn't remove all of it.
there are folks who have done just what you want to do with the engine in place. In their case, they were typically replacing a pooped out clutch spring. It involves removing the rear end or moving engine forward and removing the 4th main out of back of transmission. Then using a pipe or some other suitable tool, compressing the spring enough to pull the retaining pin from the spring retainer cup. I have never done it and hope to never need to. I don't have it in front of me, but believe the Ford Service Manual describes exactly what you want to do.
Thanks to all whose advice helped solve my clutch problem. The clutch is now repaired. My homemade spring compressor didn't work real well, but it did get the job done. The service manual calls for one hour and two minutes to do this job. I have to count my time in days, but at least it's back together. Thanks again, Ed.