I just put in my first Model T scat crank.
I Miced every place on it that I could, and the thing is perfect in all ways.
Scat makes a really good product, as you stated every thing checks out. Six blocks all Scat Stroke cranks, full pressure, two cranks still in the box not shown
mike , what is the red stuff coating the inside called ?
It looks like glyptal.
Used as a sealant.
Also used as an electrical insulator.
John is right, it is a block sealant.
Nice Babbitt work
Mike How much difference does the counterbalanced crank make. Is it worth the money. Im hoping to bring you my 27 engine soon, I talked to you about a couple days ago. Im trying to talk myself into a counterbalanced crank and basically stock engine as to cam ect. I just have to talk myself into letting that much money go.
The drag strip racers use it to reduce friction from the oil. Sure keeps the surfaces inside clean if you open it back up. I painted my rods and crank before the install as well.
Hard to tell from the close up photos but I think the Bill Dubats cranks had a better mirror finish on the journals. You won't hear of a bad Scat product.
Herm ,Please keep us up to date as to any clearance problems. Great detail in your pictures.
I had a chance to check the balance of my new Scat crank when I went in one day to my friends machine shop and he had his balance equipment set up and ready to do a SBC crank. Before he stored it away he put my crank on and said it was right on the money.
Tom Lieb and SCAT have been at this for a long time in the VW world. They make a great product and we should be grateful that he chose to do the T crank! Thanks Tom. He made me a 20 over crank at the end of a run for no extra cost, my babbit was good!
Steve it depends on the pan, three dip or four but in both cases you need to remove a bit from the rear horse shoe for the inspection cover.
Donnie the Scat crank is an improvement over any Model T Ford standard crank. I'll let others comment on the pros or cons if any.
i had a Scat crank installed in my 24 i had two problems besides the horse shoe, the holes for the alignment pins were too small and i had to drive the flywheel off when fitting the for clearance on the mag and it pulled the pins out of the flywheel a little work with a Dremel and no more problem, the other problem was that the hole for the crank pulley was not straight and when putting the new pulley on the pin hangs up on the side of the pulley so more Dremel work on the pulley. I haven't driven it enough to tell anything about it, see my post about having a bad day.
I could swear the counterweight that hits the horseshoe and bolt is the front one. I think if Tom would cut about .030" off all four of the counterweights, that would solve the problem.
Larry, on a four dip pan it is in front on a three dip it is in back.
I think that with the counterweights, the Scat crankshaft is heavier than original one. Would it be possible to reduce the flywheel to get the same inertia as with the original crankshaft + flywheel ?
Hey Philippe, I'm pretty sure that wouldn't be any problem. A believe a stock T crank weighs about 17 lbs and a Scat crank weighs about 34 lbs.
Here's a thread where a guy was taking weight out of the flywheel just to make it lighter, not because of a heavier crank.
As I have stated before, the only contact on the crank to pan when installing a Scat crank is at the rear of the inspection cover.
The rear horse shoe on a three dip pan will hit the rod throw, on the four dip it will contact with the counter balance.
This is how I address the problem. The mounting bolts will need to be shorten in both cases.
Modified horse shoes would be flipped over, you will get the idea.
Your mileage may very but I think I have installed 20 to 25 Scat cranks and never ran into any other area of contact.
Of course if installing their stroker crank the pan will need to be dimpled to clear the rod bolts.
Mike, is this contact issue only on the stroker cranks or is it a problem for the STD cranks too?
All Scat cranks are ground from the same forging. So yes, same problem .
I have driven several (about 4) model A Fords with the late B counterweighted cranks.
It makes a noticeable difference.
At the moment I am overhauling a Russian model B engine with a late counterbalanced crank.
Before pulling it apart I drove the model A roadster it was in. Very smooth compared to a stock model A.
A counterbalanced crank in a T would be a great improvement I am sure.