I am about ready to have my 1927 engine rebuilt. I plan on using Mike Bender in Tulsa to do the work. He seems to have done lots of the SCAT crank installs. Instead of telling me the pros and cons of the SCAT crank himself, he suggested I find out from the forum and other owners as to there merits. I respect that from someone. I understand about the clearance problems with the lower inspection cover U-bars and understand the fix. My main question is, is there enough difference in the amount of vibration to warrant the cost of a crank. Also, does it allow a higher rpm/speed "sweet spot" for cruising. Any other pros or cons that I should be aware of. I plan on a basically stock engine (with SCAT)in a 27 touring, for tour use. I do not want to "soupe it up" Just make it run smooth. I see there is another "counterbalanced" crank in Langs catalog. It is made from ductile iron. I have read that there was a problem with the journal hard surfacing peeling or flaking off. Is that still a problem. Is it even worth considering instead of the SCAT crank.? There is not enough difference in the price to worry about. Thanks for any input anyone may give ....
If you are feeling flush, the Scat crank would be nice to have. Necessary? Probably not needed in an essentially stock touring motor but it would almost certainly be a bit smoother and probably brings less risk of joining the 2 piece crank club. My checking account would probably pass for a stock T but go with the Scat for a hopped up motor that I planned to run fairly hard in a speedster. Your budget, your choice.
It speaks well of Mike Bender that he isn't pushing you into the Scat without checking around with others.
I have heard several engines run with the scat crank installed, they are very smooth and can idle down to nothing..…..almost too smooth for my taste
I have built them with the different cranks and one of them I did was the Moscow to Russia car and I was not liking the ideal of a crank being forged in China but it made a believer by making the trip. Do you need that heavy of a crank, probably not but will you ever break it in your life time probably not either. The Dubat's shaft I have check and asked several times about it and no one has ever said any thing bad of it. I have installed them and they are a really nice shaft also and there is no modifing the pan. The new Zealand cranks beware! I myself run an old EE crank in a Fordor and run it's wheels off.
Has worked well for me.
Thanks for the info so far. Joe: My engine has a EE crank in it and I also have a couple more EE cranks. What is the difference in them . I believe they came out in 27 if Im not mistaken and were a little heavier forgings. ??
We have a number of members in the club that also belong to the two-piece crank club. The general concensus is that is primarily due to metal fatigue. These cranks are 100 years old.
A scat crank is new metal and it is balanced. Need I say more. Just my 2 cents.
p.s. I have a scat on order.
The EE where a different chemistry than the others, rumor has it they are the tuff ones to break.
mike installed a scat for me and balanced the transmission I am very happy with it.
As William said that is the only way to go for a car your going to tour all the time.
I have a Scat on order, and I am using it with stock iron pistons in a the Fordor. I will let you know how it works.