This is an A question. My 29 radiator is badly slimmed with motor oil in the water, but there is no water in the crankcase oil. How does this happen? I would expect it to be in both places. Being a flathead, how does a blown head gasket, which l am expecting to find, allow oil to get into the coolant?
If you do a leakdown test and watch for bubbles in the radiator, you can confirm before teardown. Not sure how you get oil in coolant on a flathead but I am not that familiar with As.
The cooling system in a Model A is not pressurized, therefore it is possible to have oil leakage into the water and not vice versa necessarily.
Three possibilities. One is waterpump grease. The water pump is greased and some of the grease will get into the water. Another is more serious. Leaky headgasket. The Power stroke of the engine forces some unburned gas and oil through the gasket into the water jacket. More serious than the other two would be a crack in the head or block into the water jacket. There too compression and power forces the oil into the water jacket. However, the last two causes would be more likely to get some water into the oil especially if the leak was very bad.
many people grease that water pump to death. the new kit with sealed bearings is a good thing. i have a couple a's with greasy radiators, been running for years like that
I beleive I'll go along with Norms water pump grease. Just that alone won't take much so slime water. Just a drop of oil in a pond looks like an oil spill.
How long has this been going on. These engines are
not a real high pressure oil system so we all know
that. I rule that out. More common for water in the oil. I bought a 93 F150 (junk yard buddie) for
$500 he said it needs a motor 302- radiators full of
black oil. Truck runs fine, fine oil press. Dont use
oil and dont use water no smoke just runs good. So if it needs a motor so what run it till it crokes.
I run the truck 3yrs daily and plowin snow (its a
hired town truck). About the forth year,dripping
water pump. Ok I spend a day flushing this, first
I poured straight gas in it. Let it set, then flushed it with a (real) flush gun uses water and
shop air. Flushed with soap flushed with water, all day till water is clean. Put new water pump, anti freeze. Been 10 yrs still running, water is
anti freeze green. For giggles I ask my friend,
what was & who he got it from. come to find out
something about a divorce. I bet she dumped or had somebody dump black stuff in there. So in your
case it is possible its the wrong water pump grease, which has to be specific & I havent seen
that even at Napa for years or try marine pump
grease that water does not break down.
Well, it's not water pump grease, as the pump has sealed bearings and has been on there for a year now. I went to check that all of the head bolts are tight, so I set my torque wrench to 55 lbs and got at it. The 7th one broke off as soon as I touched it. It was held in place with CRAZY GLUE !!! This just got ugly.
"A" 's have studs, after the head is removed, not today ?, tap the short end & use a heli-coil if necessary.
Happy Turkey Day... and relax
The absolute maximum head bolt torque for and A or T is 50 lbs.
Best to torque to 45, that is enough to do the job on both cars.
You are pushing your luck when you torque to 55.
I'm planning to pull it apart tomorrow and am expecting those rusty studs to give me quite the battle just to get the head off. Once that is done, I will weld a nut to the broken stud. Hopefully, the heat from welding will free it enough to let some Kroil get down in there. After a day of soaking, it should come out... Optimistically. By the way, l replaced the head gasket on my T last night with the gasket sold by Ford-n-More. Very nice product and, wow, is the T easier to work on than the A!
Sounds like you will have this problem under control.