Before I roll my selves up and get stuck in thought I would ask your thoughts on what could be causing this.
When driving the T in 2nd the clutch peddle has an up and down movement all the time, about 1/2, also when changing from 1st to 2nd there is quite a shudder initially, not sure if the 2 are associated.
Any thoughts would be appreciated. John
I would jack up the rear end, remove the tranny cover plate and have a look inside while someone turns it over slowly by hand.
I wonder if the 4th main cap is worn out or missing? For the pedal to vibrate like that the trans output has to wobble too. The only way it could wobble would be if the babbit were gone or the ball cap completely missing.
Could the low band be too tight and it's trying to self energize pulling the pedal back and forth?
4th main has just been changed.
Suggestion in the low speed band is one I thought of checking. It has been backed off a little as there were other issues with the Rockies/emergency brake setup.
Could the clutch spring not being adjusted correctly have any effect? Maybe a broken clutch plate?
Can't you cut a plate in transparent plastic, the size of the inspection cover. Fix it in place of the inspection cover, jack up the rear of the car and make it run on idle in high gear.
Now you should be able to see were the movement is coming from.
I tried the transparent inspection route but so much oil gets thrown around that you still can't see a damn thing!
Maybe take the spark plugs out, jack the rear wheels off the ground, and have someone hand crank the engine with the trans in high gear while you look through your clear inspection cover?
What year? If it's pre 1916 could the distance plate in the clutch pack be missing and the bottom disk are trying to slide under the lugs on the brake drum.
The shudder could be too much engine speed and not letting up on the low pedal fast enough.
Sometimes the parking brake will cause this problem. Try taking out the clevis pins from the parking brake and see if it fixes the problem.
The cure is to shorten the rods. If they are too long, they will push the control lever back which will cause the clutch to slip and chatter. Same thing can happen if the parking brake lever hits the floorboard when pushed all the way forward.
You could disconnect the clutch linkage outside the gearbox and run it with a wheel jacked up. If the pedal movement goes away, it's the high gear clutch (or Rockies -see below) causing the shake. If it doesn't, it's coming from the low gear band/drum.
But you mentioned issues with Rockies. I have seen a car where there was feedback/interference which tended to apply the handbrake when the footbrake was applied. If the cross-shaft gets moved, it could contact the clutch cam and hence move the pedal.
Is the pedal shake at once-per-engine rev, once-per-wheel rev or more random???
Many thanks for everyone’s input, really appreciated. Subject to a good test run tomorrow I think I have sorted it. Seems the issue was clutch adjustment. I fitted a Jack Rabbit clutch some months ago and followed the Macs instructions that came with it. Now following Snyder's version of the instructions seems to have cured the issue. One says set clutch spring to 2" but now I have followed Snyders and set it according to the original Ford service manual ie 13/16th between clutch shift and drive plate it seems to have cured the issues but this makes the clutch spring length a lot longer than 2"! As far as I can tell both supply the same part so I wonder if I’m missing something here! Here are relevant parts of instructions from both suppliers.
I had a problem with a clutch, slightly slipping, and the spring was more than the 2"s, turned out that the retainer cup had worn through the pin that holds it all together and the spring and cup was riding on the ball cap (4th main), so double check things as even if set at 13/16ths that still should give you a 2" spring.