Unable to locate a pattern or usable 1914 -16 splash apron which has a defined crease or bend at the beginning of the flare which ultimately meets the bead on the rear fender. Has anyone modified a Rootlieb apron to reproduce the correct flare? If so, would like to communicate with that individual,contact someone who may be able to reproduce a pair or purchase a rebuildable pair. Thanks jerry alanko Tilghman, Maryland firstname.lastname@example.org
Jerry, I have had splash aprons made locally, before they were available from the vendors. When folded, the bottom edge fold was parallel with the curved section of the apron. I had to cut along the fold between the curve and the bottom and bend the curved part out. However this in turns pulls the curve down from the top where it meets the body, as it meant I was effectively shortening the back edge.
As I had cut out the wedge shaped piece between the cut abd the flat portion of the apron, I had to shape a filler piece and weld it back in. On the second one, I did not cut out the wedge piece. It was hand bent up to the curved section, with the correct taper on the flat, and then only one weld was needed.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
First of all, I would like to correct your terminology. The splash apron is under the radiator from 1924-27, on high radiator cars. What you are referring to is the splash shield!
The head judge of the MTFCI has been notified on this point, and the judging guidelines will be changed. Check orginal Ford literature for further clarification.
No not quite right either Larry, unless the US parts book differs from the Canadian, it is,
"Running Board Metal Shield"
Maybe something like these;
The Ford parts book calls that piece under the radiator (#3977) the radiator apron. It calls the piece over the running board (#4814 & #4815) the running board shield. It makes sense to use a name for the part which mentions what's next to it, making it clear which part you mean.
Allan, Thanks for the information on modifying an apron which I may have to do as original 1914-16 aprons are really difficult to find, even with offers of $200 for a junker pattern. The 1911 aprons, as listed on e-bay, are totally different from the 14-16 style. Will keep looking for and original ones, but my sources are turning up nothing. Thanks everyone for your help. jerry
I believe they are all the same from 1913 - 1917. The bulge seems to have gone away some time in model year 1918.
The ones listed at Lang's look to have a budge at the back;
My original parts book lists 1912 to 1916 are the same, new part # for 1917 and on.
Jerry---I modified Rootlibe shields for my 15 after not being satisfied with the aftermarket look of those being sold. First, measure back on the top of the shield 13" and make a mark,with a magic marker right on the edge. Go down to the bottom of the shield and measure back on the bottom 11",right above formed metal. With a steel tape measure, join the two marks over the curve and make a line with your magic marker. This is your saw line for your saber saw, but not all the way. Stop 2"short of the formed metal.
Now comes the part where you make the shield so it matches the fender molding. That cut that you made comes into play. Cut a piece of sheet metal about 2" square. Clamp it on the inside of the shield on the top of the cut on one side while spreading the cut open 1/2. Clamp the other side.
By now you see where I am going with this. Cut a dozen sheet metal band aid size straps bend them slightly to follow the form on the inside of the shield.
To minimize warpage I first tried bonding, but that didn't work very well, and i am not a very good welder. I then bought a 230volt spot welder from Harbor freight, and that did the trick.
That half inch gap worked perfectly for me, but if you miss the measurements a bit, don"t worry. You can only see one side of a T at at a time
I have a set of original shields, and I know the bulge is missing from my modified shields, but there is no way I could hammer them out.The fact is they cost me nothing for I 'd been wanting a spot welder for a long time. Also, a lot of people don't even know about the bulge, and the shields match up beautifully with the rear fenders
I don't have any spares, yet do have a '15 and often share the 'Too bad you have that crease' story, even coming from T folks (The answer by the way is "Yeah, but fortunately the apron on the other side got creased the same way!" )
I would rather have a wrinkled original than a flawless copy.
I hope my runabout looks half as nice as yours before many more years pass. Yours is beautiful!
Drive carefully and enjoy, W2
The original splash shields I have, I bought at Hershey a couple of years ago for measurements, only cost me $30. They were off a 15 wide track that burned up in a fire. The metal was tempered and quenched, and springy as heck. The usual rotten spots were stick welded about 70 or 80 years ago by a blacksmith who like me, also wasn't a welder. If anybody wants them, I'l bring them to Hershey 2014 with a $30 price tag. --GDI 10-12. Let me know.---Len
Before the posting closes, I would like to thank all those who make this hobby/addiction so fulfilling. Special thanks to Leonard for providing a usable pattern. Enjoy the Holiday season. jerry alanko
I saw these on ebay and think they may be the ones you are looking for:
Hope to see you soon.
If someone had a stash of old Model T parts and was somewhat computer savvy, they could monitor this forum, and when someone posts that they're looking for something, they could put it on ebay for a silly price just to see if someone would pay it.
I believe that has been the case for some time now.
I regularly watch the For Sale & Wanted ads and will reply to someone looking for a part - I don't throw it on Ebay, though !
Exactly, if they're monitoring the forum, why not just PM the person looking for the part, why give eBay a cut of the deal?
Was the tab between the apron and rear fender added in the curved fender cars? 1915-16?
Ken in Texas
To sell it quicker (maybe) and get payed quicker. So you don't have to play email tag then wait for payment to arrive. Maybe the seller contacted the person looking for an item, the buyer did not like the price so it gets listed on ebay. If one persons is looking maybe there are others, there's gold in them Model T parts!
Mark, there is someone that does that, watches the postings.