Wood Wheel Paint Questions for RV Anderson or Jim Patrick

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: Wood Wheel Paint Questions for RV Anderson or Jim Patrick
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Mahoney on Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 02:02 pm:

Calling RV Anderson and Jim Patrick...you guys seem to be VERY knowledgeable about the "art"!

Having read up on wheel restoration and finding myself in middle of the job and following RV's approach outlined in (http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/26405.html), I'm in need of help regarding wood filler application. Here's the situation:

Wood spokes were stripped to bare wood. Some have gouges and grain showing. Otherwise sound condition. Did NOT use wood filler to smooth out prior to application of Zinsser Cover Stain (primer). Put two coat of Zinsser on per RV method. Now can see how obvious the gouges and dings are ;( Have put too much time into wheels to let this go prior to finishing them up!

QUESTION 1: can I apply wood filler on top of the PRIMED spokes without compromising future integrity of the paint job? Or does it have to go onto bare wood for max adhesion?

QUESTION 2: Any other recommendations for filler in addition to Moser's (mentioned in referenced thread)? Would like to buy locally to get on with the job and only have the big box stores available.

Thanks in advance and to all reading this, THANKS for making this forum such a valuable asset to the community!!

Ted M.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick on Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 02:31 pm:

Ted. I use Abatron (www.Abatron.com) 2 part WoodEpox epoxy wood filler to repair wood rot on my house and it can be used over primer and finish coat when filling wood, but I have never filled gouges on wood spokes and am hesitant to suggest you do so, because of the possible danger of applying cosmetic repairs to a weak and rotten spoke.

If you are absolutely sure your spokes are solid and the gouges were caused by sandblasting or scraping to remove the old paint, I would use the filler, however, if you are not sure what caused the gouges or if the gouges are caused by dry rot or any sort of natural deterioration, I would replace the rotten spokes with a new set, because the rot may go down to the core thus compromising the integrity and strength of the wood.

As a wood filler, WoodEpox, while expensive, cannot be beat. I am currently repairing the window sashes of my Victorian house with it, now.

As a primer on the wood spokes, I use Sherwin Williams Exterior Oil based primer, hand brushing it on and letting it dry for a week. On the bare steel rim, I paint with red oxide primer after removing all the rust. I then hand brush on Sherwin Williams oil based gloss black enamel on both the primed wooden and steel wheel. Jim Patrick




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Mahoney on Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 02:49 pm:

Jim,
Thanks! Not to worry - gouges and dings are topical in nature, not affecting the structural integrity of the spoke/wheel. All are good, solid "rappers". Agree that you don't mess with questionable spokes - foolhardy. Relieved to hear that filler can go on AFTER primer applied. Whew.
TM


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 04:21 pm:

You can use Bondo if all you are doing is making them pretty for painting.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By R.V. Anderson on Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 05:04 pm:

I have no experience with modern type fillers, epoxy or otherwise, so I can't praise or disparage them and will rely on Jim's assessment. Personally I like and use Moser's water based wood filler exclusively, for filling small imperfections, nicks, etc. I like it because wood itself is water based, and the filler itself is mostly wood dust, with binders, adhesive, and water. It can be applied after the primer but I always scrape the nicked area clean so it adheres to the bare wood. Then I touch up the area with a brush after sanding the filler smooth.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Friday, December 06, 2013 - 12:13 pm:

I've used DuPont bumper primer, which is made for modern bumpers. It's flexible, and is a good primer too. I can fix small defects on top of it with regular glazing putty, and prime over that with regular primer. I use Centari 99A black for the finish coat. Works for me.


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