Been down this road many times. I have the wheel puller, but it is stripping the hub. Can't get it on. Tried expanding it to put it on then tightening it, but not working. I tried the 'long nut' type thing you screw on the other end of the axle and bang that, but no go.
I did not have the key wedge that goes with the T so I bought two 1 1/4 long by 1/4 x 1/4 thick square key wedges, sanded them slightly to fit with minimal play, WD 40 on it hoping the wheel would come off but it does not come off.
Any suggestions would be very helpful. Thank you in advance. Bob
Many folks have loosened the nut a little and drove the car some.
Got it! tried tapping the axle on the side of the stuck wheel. That made it come loose.
Thanks for thw advice Jim.
I had one where the key slid as the wheel went on, locked everything together. Stripped the threads off the hub. Finally I used a grinder to remove the bolt heads and disassembled the wheel. Then used a large gear puller by putting it on the bolt ends, welding on nuts and still had to wok hard to pull it off. I figured that once the hub threads were stripped, the hub was toast anyway. Wasn't until the hub was off that I learned why it was stuck. I don't think it would have come off any other way.
The "Wheel Puller" is not supposed to be used as a puller... Just tightening it up and trying to use it as a puller can wreck the puller or the hub.
The "Wheel Puller" should be turned all the way down on the hub threads and then locked (clamped) in place. The wheel you are trying to pull should also be off the ground. The center bolt on the puller should then be tightened very snug. I am guessing that I generally tighten them around 75 foot pounds. You then hit the end of the bolt with a large hammer. I use an 8 pound sledge with a long handle and gently swing it from about 18" away, just letting the inertia do all the work. A good, gentle, square, swing with a big hammer will work far better than trying to kill it with a little hammer. Hit it once or twice then try to tighten the bolt a little. Just make sure it is still as tight as it was the first time. Then hit it once or twice more. Generally by the time you repeat this process 1-4 times, you will hear a snap or pop sound and the wheel will be loose.
The "Wheel Puller" is essentially a better version of the "knock off tool". The small amount of "slop" between the threads of the bolt and the threads in the body of the puller allow the bolt just enough travel when you whack it with the hammer that it has a tendency to hold the hub firm while an impact is being squarely applied to the end of the axle shaft taper...
Rear wheels that come off the axle shaft easily and do not require the use of a "wheel puller" are usually installed improperly or the taper on the axle shaft or the taper on the inside of the hub is worn, or the axle keys are improperly installed.
"I did not have the key wedge that goes with the T"
Just buy a 1 foot length of 1/4" X 1/4" key stock and cut the length you need.
Ford spec: REAR AXLE KEY (For tapered axle, 1/4 x 1/4 x 2-11/32”) 2816B 1912-27
I have one of the very late tee-pee Ford script wheel pullers. I paid $10 for it over 50 years ago, when you could still get a good T for under $1000. I like it because it has a slammer on the end of it.
Another way to use the wheel puller if the wheel is drive-able is to loosen the axle nut but do not remove it. Next install the puller as Adam described. Next drive the car making sharp turns. This always works for me and the loose nut prevents the wheel from falling off.
I agree with Willie. If it won't come off by tightening and using a hammer, do what Willie says and you will be surprised. This is what I think your problem might be. If you used a square key without the taper ground at the ends, it is probably very tightly wedged into the taper either of the axle or the inside of the hub. There's a reason why the ends of the key are tapered. Anyway try what Willie says.