I just took my Carburetor off to do a rebuild on it and struggled a little while, getting those Carb nuts off. I finally ended up using my 9/16 30/60 wrench. It still was not ideal.
Did Ford make a tool for this job? If so what part number?
Random Picture from Ebay
A crowfoot wrench makes it easy.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=crows+foot+wrench+set&tag=googhydr-20& index=aps&hvadid=31928342010&hvpos=1t2&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16864063363275829 71&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_6jz6mwsllz_b
I changed mine over to Allen head, Make life so much nicer.
Here it is, 5 Z 817
Keith, there is no way that can be the tool for the nuts. That tool looks like one used on the bolt head. I can see a picture of a tool that sort of looks like your picture used in the Service Manual but it has different bends and they are using it on the bolt side. I also see him using what looks like a normal wrench on the Carb nut but it must have thin fingers or a weird angle to it.
Adam,Kieth has shown you the correct wrench. I find a distributor wrench works well on the other side with it.
Keith thanks for your post and for that picture too it's always nice to see the tool. I guess it's just funny to me that they expect you to hold the nut and back out the bolt. I just read that in a few spots in the service manual last night.
Jack thanks for the tool idea.
I think even with the correct tool it would be very tough to loosen. I happened to use my box end 9/16 with twelve points on the bolt head side toward the front of the car and the 9/16 30/60 wrench on the nut and it was just barely enough to get a little movement on that bolt head to loosen it. I can only imagine only having a 6 point where you don't have the extra opportunities to loosen things in that tight space with short throw.
Keith do you use this tool to do the job and what's your success. Is it easier than what I am making it out to be?
I made oversize nuts out of 5/16" flat stock, they're wide enough that they can't turn, so no wrench needed on them.
Adam : I use this wrench
Anthonie, so you just reversed your bolt and put it in from the back and put the nuts to the front of the car? That would make it easier.
Hey maybe that's where I'm wrong. Are the nuts supposed to be to the front of the car? Mine were toward to back near the carb body. That's what made it tough.
Adam, I keep one in my tool bag in the car but have never used it in the last seven years on the road. I did use it on initial installation along with a rachet. KGB
Hey Adam, when I had an NH on my car, I put the nuts towards the front. That let me put a wrench on the bolt head (towards the firewall) and then a long socket from the front (towards the radiator) made quick work of getting the carb off.
It also makes installation easier - hold the carb and the heads of the bolts in left hand and thread nuts on with the right. I can't imagine that having the bolts come from the front is "correct".
Mine had the nuts towards the rear. In either case a long 3/8" extension, long enough to get the ratchet past the carb body, and a thin wall socket with a swivel does the trick. If the bolt turns it's easy enough to drop a short open end over the head when it's in the right position. Re-installed with invisible star washers under the bolt heads. Now I just break them loose and finger them off.
I discovered that the key is to jam a big flat-blade screwdriver in between the carb body and the nut (or bolt, depending on how you put it together. Then use the right length extension and it's a piece of cake!
Some carbs don't allow you to put the bolts in from the carb side. Also, the "fatter" early aluminum manifolds don't allow you to get a normal socket on the nuts/bolts toward the front. So choices of what's correct often are limited to what's possible.
That is the correct tool and it does NOT make any difference which way you put the bolt. There was at least three other companies that made a wrench for the same bolt.
Cameron, that is a god idea, the screw driver blade sounds quick and easy too. I will have to try that out.
It looks like that with the Holley NH you might be able to reverse the bolt and put them in from the carb side toward the front.
That being said I think I will keep mine in the stock orientation. Only stupid reason being, I like the original small challenges and overcoming them with little tricks that work.
Dave thanks for the tool pictures. When I originally posted to Keith I was imagining trying to put that tool on the nut end by the carb. It was my mistake in where it was being used. I guess I thought Ford might have possibly made a special wrench with a certain head angle (Like the 30/60) to easily get to those carb nuts. Kind of like the special Exhaust nut wrench.
Lol Adam, it sounds like you want to make it hard for the sake of making it hard. I'd double check with some of the folks around here before assuming that the bolts coming the rad and nuts from the firewall is "correct" before just making it difficult.
Haha very true Seth.
I guess what I meant is, if the bolt is supposed to go in from the front, then I enjoy the challenge and the use of the best workaround. It can be chalked up as cool Model T knowledge on how to get it done, when given an original Model T situation.
One of the things I like about the Stromberg OF is that the mounting flange is threaded to accept the mounting bolts and lock washers without the need for a nut. Much easier to take on and off the intake manifold. Never had one come loose yet after many years and really rough back country roads.