Is there a suggested way to remove rear head bolt on a TT? I have removed the other ones to replace with nice shiney new ones I got but ran into interference from the firewall on the rear one. Hopefully there is an easy way. The head is cracked and I got a new one, but need to replace it. THanks
I have never done this in a TT but it works in the cars. Take all the head bolts out except for the back one then pull it up as far as you can and hold it up with a clip. You should then be able to slide the head forward enough to pull the head bolt out. Replacement is the same in reverse.
Raise them up and tie them off to hold them up. You should now be able to remove the head. The new bolts need to be positioned in the same manner other wise you won't be able to install them.
Sorry Val, I was typing as you posted.
I use either a clothes pin or a rubber band to hold them up while you remove or install a head.
Thanks guys! I have read you can reuse the head gasket, so I may spray with some copper and install as normal. Preciate the advice. It WAS pretty close but didn't think about the suggested technique before as I wasnt removing the head before, just putting some spiffy bolts in. Good stuff.
Use a new gasket. You know how hard it to remove the head. If the gasket blows you will need to do it again.
Since you are changing head bolts, now would be the time to run a bottom tap in the bolt holes to make sure they are clean and also to check the legnth of the new bolts to make sure they don't bottom out giving a false sense tightness.
I've been wondering about whether a guy could reuse a head gasket too. I've not done it, but if you are just removing a head and putting it back on the same block, wouldn't it be OK to use copper-coat on it and put it back? What's the experience of those of you who have done it?
Hasn't anyone tried this? How'd it work out or you?
Tried it once when I was 17 trying to save a few pennies cost me 3 hours of work it leaked like a sieve and water ended up in the oil pan! don't even think about it not worth the effort.
You should never reuse a head gasket on any car. Once a head gasket is installed, it is usually torqued 3 times or more and there is n't much squeeze left.
Ok, Thanks for the responses, Guys. I'd just been wondering when putting the same head and block back together whether a new one was really necessary. Wondering as I unwrapped that new gasket every time whether I was wasting $30. I won't wonder any more.
It's been done plenty of times. I was installing a horn bracket when the threads in the block pulled. Took the head off to install a helicoil and reinstalled with the old gasket (painted both sides with copper coat and put it all together wet). I bought a new gasket and carry it with me but the re-used gasket has lasted at least 5-6 years.
This isn't the best practice but I didn't have a gasket with me that day.
Years ago we re-used plenty of head gaskets, the copper clad ones, if they weren't damaged.
The way I was taught was to clean them up good, put in the oven at 300º F for 30 minutes or so, (to soften and expand them), remove from oven, let them cool and you're good to go. Never had a failure on re-used gaskets.
Don't know if they can be re-used more than once though.
FWIW, when I worked in Kogalym, Siberia I saw head gaskets used for TV antennas.
You may be able to re-use the copper head gasket if it has not been stretched and distorted during removal from the gasket sealant holding it in place, but I wouldn't chance it. The few dollars you save in reusing gaskets will be quickly spent on your wasted valuable time and frustration when it goes bad and you have to redo the job all over again. Might as well spend the money for a new one as you should have done to begin with and do the job just once.
It is agreed that new is the way to go. The question was can a head gasket be re-used. I'm guessing Mike wanted to know in case he is ever in a pinch. In my case I needed the car the next day and didn't have a new gasket on hand. If someone is on tour and has a valve stick to the point that it needs to come out and be cleaned up I would every time suggest they re-use as opposed to putting it on a trailer for lack of a gasket.
Growing up on a farm I learned there will be lots of stuff that isn't best practice that a guy can do to get by. I doubt there is anyone reading this that hasn't had to re-use a cotter pin. They may not admit to it but they have done it.
Our own illustrious Constantine did quite well with a re-used head gasket once he got some metallic spray paint on it. I suspect if the gasket is ok everywhere it'll be fine with some fresh copper spray. At the same time, unless I'm really strapped for cash or in a bind out on the road, I'll just use a new gasket.
Ok another new-to Ts question. I have a replacement head. It appears to be in a good shape. My old one the outer water jacket caused a crack in the outer head casting that was slightly leaking.
The new head has a lot of "Gook" on it, sort of dried grease or dirt or combination. I know these are not as particular as modern engines, and was thinking I could clean it up with mineral spirits, then take some 320 grit and put it on a bit of flat plywood and clean it up and little with light passes, then clean it off.
Looks also like I should get a new a HG, I did recall seeing here that it seemed at the time (many moons ago) that the threads I was reading the guys always reused their head gaskets unless damaged. Its such a low compression engine it figured to not stress it a lot.
Another ? - I have the head off now, and wondering about cleaning up the valves or anything. The engine ran before. Its mostly a display vehicle honestly for a buddy of mines show garage, and as long as it runs reasonably it will likely only see very slight use. I am figuring just putting it back together for that reason.
Scott: Do as you want, but I take mine to a auto machine shop with a vat and have it vatted. I tell them to leave it over the weekend so it gets a good soak. Than you can have them deck it so it is flat. Dan.
The parts washer and mineral spirits got most of the gook off. The plywood and some 240 grit worked great, I got high spots ID'd and a bit of small 3/8" long edge lip from transport I was able to knock down etc. I am careful, would not do that to a modern car head but for this should be fine. Will use tap in the block as suggested. Waiting on new HG. Found one at Texas T for good price.