Are the steering columns from a left hand drive interchangeable with RHD? if so, how? I have the mounting bracket. What changes are needed
Rob -- If memory serves, the column housing is the same, but the levers are different. The lower steering bracket is different as well. Timer and throttle rods are different, but easy to make.
Rob, as far as I know the only changes needed are the rods. On a RHD column the left lever is the throttle. It terminates a little above the generator. There is a piece through which goes the steering shaft in the centre and the control rods either side. The advance lever is on the right and goes clear through the lower bracket. The short timer control lever goes on below the bracket and points up.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Are the rods available for them ? Also is the carb any different?
The only difference on the carb is the throttle arm, it's at 90degrees to the LHD, and the timer goes on upside down, so you need a RHD timer if you are going to use the oil hole. And you may need asbestos boots in the summer, with the exhaust running through the middle of the pedals.
Jem, the tail pipe runs below, and a little to the right, of the pedals. The control rods are reversed. On mine Cut off the bottom of both and splice on a new end for the spark lever.
You can reverse the bend at the upper end of the throttle and spark levers and use them on the opposite sides. Seems like you might need to drill new holes for the small arms for the spark and throttle rods, but I don't remember for sure.
Terry, I meant the exhaust runs right through the pedal area - my friend Rob was wearing rubber sole shoes one day and his feet kept sticking to the pedals. Also the exhaust needs a few kinks to get round them, the T Register here in the UK had a batch of pipes made for RHD.
Jem made a good point re the exhaust pipe, and getting it past the pedals. Until I delivered a rolling chassis to our pipe maker, we always had problems getting things to clear the pedals/frame. We too have pipes that fit in our T club store.
Allan from down under.
Terry, your photo's show a couple of issues, that fuel line is to close to the exhaust pipe and should follow the chassis on the inside of the engine mount, through the wood block that is also missing.
Kerry, you have sharp eyes. I believe that the very items you have spotted are giving me problems.
My car acts a bit like it has a vapor lock issue. As yet it is unclear whether it is a vapor lock or spark timing which is at fault.
No one noted that I ran my wires in a plastic wire loom... which has melted and sagged near the exhaust pipe! Repositioning the wires above the frame rail has placed them in a cooler location but has not repaired the plastic conduit!
The previous owner of my 1923 touring / pickup conversion wrapped the front 3 feet of the exhaust pipe with header wrap, the ends are clamped to the pipe with standard hose clamps. The wrap does a good job of holding down the heat in that area. Not OEM, but it works well.
Rob.----If the engine has a generator you will need a steering column mount of a style to suit before you pin the advance & retard arm on .