Does anyone know the Crank Bushing Specs Inner and Outer Diameters + Proper Length? Better yet does anyone have one made that fits right and is not a rolled steel one like the Parts House Ones?
Ford bushing was also rolled steel. What's your concern?
It was my understanding that many of these rolled steel bushings being offered were not totally round, Hard to install, Needed to be turned down a bit and the inner diameter is not a true fit and a little large. I have seen that in many of the posts about the crank bushings.
My experience after mounting two of the parts house bushings is: The outside diameter is quite OK, the hard part isn't mounting the new bushing, it's getting rid of the old one. No pullers I made out of threaded rod held up for pulling the old bushing out, so I had to do as I usually do, cut them with a hack saw blade lengthwise.
Pulling the new bushing in with threaded rod worked OK and the inner diameter while a tad large, gave the crank much better support than the old worn out bushings.
If your crank is worn, you may weld it up and smoothen it - or turn it down to a slightly smaller diameter, then a custom crank bushing would be a good idea. Likely it's easier to search for a better crank?
If you don't want the crank to flop around and wear the bushing while driving, Fast Frank Harris idea might be worthwhile. It's about cutting a slot in the inner edge of the bushing and threading a hole for a bolt in the crank so the bolt is holding the crank in one position, like standing up while not in use. The usual spring keeping the crank from touching the crank shaft pin helps holding the crank to the front and the bolt in the slot.
See pictures :
Adam, I weld a new piece of 3/4" shaft on the handle to take care of wear in the old one. To get a good penetration in the weld, the handle and the replacement piece are heavily Veed out before welding. Just make sure the pinhole for the dog is drilled in the same relationship as the old one or the handle will not engage as before.
Then I use an off-the-shelf bronze bush instead of the rolled steel one the dealers supply. Sometimes the OD of the new bush needs to be turned down a bit to allow fitting. The new bush is then reamed for a precise fit. There is nothing like a neat fit to make cranking almost a pleasure.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
I am under the impression that the aft bronze camshaft bushing can be used for the crank bushing. Sometimes the pan nose is off a bit and a precision fit on this bushing will keep the crank from lining up with the crankshaft.
Ted, Early on in my searches, I did read that crank alignment issue. Thanks for reminding me about that. That fact in itself, might be an argument for the looser fitting bushing.
How about building up the crank handle. What is the best method there. I would like to keep the original look. Would it be as easy as using the MIG welder to build it up and taking it to a machine shop and having them turn it down to the right specs?
What is the correct Diameter for the crank?
Adam, how do you envisage the machine shop holding the crank to be turned? It would take a fair sized lathe with a gap bed to be able to swing the handle. Where would it be gripped in the chuck?
These difficulties are negated by replacing the worn section with a new piece of shaft.
Hope this clarifies.
Allan from down under.
Allan, I'm not sure how they would hold something like the crank? I don't do machine work, so I just expect miracles. I am not sure, maybe doing that is out of the question.
The new shaft is a good idea and one I can explore as well.
Why not use the leather holding strap that holds it about 10 o'clock
I would go ahead and use the correct steel split bushing, and to make installation easier, you may wish to turn the exposed portion to a true diameter, with the split facing down. The non exposed portion, I would leave alone, and if you are not using a press, or installation tool, make sure the front of the crankcase is securely fastened, so you don't mess up the front of the crankcase.
David, I have one of the Holding Straps now but I think the goal I am trying to achieve here is to restore the crank operation to a like new condition with respectable tolerances. At the very least take some of the slop out of the crank handle.
Larry, interesting point about the split. Why choose to have the split down and not say, to one side or the other? It seems like the handle is less likely to rub constantly on the split if it were to the side. Also, with the split on the bottom, when you oiled the bushing your oil would go through the split and out of the bushing.
The big reason for putting the split at the bottom is because that's the one place where the crank never puts a load on the bushing during the cranking cycle (provided you're not one who likes to "spin" the engine). This is the typical approach for all rolled bushings; push 'em in with the split away from the heaviest load.
I had the easiest time putting one of these in my brother's '17 touring. I ground a slight chamfer on the end I was going to drive into the pan then drove it in with a 2# hammer while it drove out the old bushing. With all the mass of the block, etc. the new bushing walked right in like driving a 20 d nail. The front nose mount takes all the beating but we never had a problem.
Warren, Thanks for the explanation. It makes sense to me. I hope my bushing is as easy is your is. I have a feeling it won't be.
I turned a punch with a .980 Od and a small 1" long pilot on the front end. It was .020 smaller than the ID of the bushing. the pilot fit inside the old bushing and just whacked it out. no muss, no fuss