Just wondering, what part or item would the T world need, want, or buy that is currently not available.
Many quality items are being made, but there must be several items we just cannot get that there would surely be a market for. What do you wish for?
Air Pump Cup Leather
Holley NH Carb Bowls (Center and Side Drain)
NH center drain bowl is part #6202C from Lang's. I don't think anybody's making the side drain version.
An item I found unavailable recently is a correct rear spring bolt. I haven't checked, but that probably goes for the front too.
A nut used by Ford a lot is 1/4-20, but 1/2" across the flats and .165" high. I'll probably make my own.
More Kingston carb parts.
Head light sockets that put the current bulb filaments in the correct direction.
Spring center bolt with correct head.
Original style 2510 axle housing cap the correct size for early axles.
1926-27 gas tank.
Exhaust pipe with correct bends not the stainless steel one.
Brand new, metal reproductions of running-board toolboxes, with locking keys, in three proportions:
"Battery-box," "Tall," "Long-&-short" (and of course, all three should be the same width; that of the running board).
Rear Spring perch.
1926/27 Radiator Surround
That's not much. I bet the list is longer on a 10 year old modern.
26-27 coupe/pick up rear fenders in steel
Mark, i had looked into the 26/27 gas tanks but the price and quantity were scary, $800.00 in lots of 400, this would be with a modern vented cap and no external overflow tube.
Knobby rear tires.
A Craig-Hunt shaft-driven head with the manifolds pump and the front plate.
I'll second the vote for the exhaust pipe with the correct bends.
Really decent video's available to every one. Possibly on You Tube. Replacing bands, rear end re-building, setting mains & rods, coil re-building, valve setting & adjusting. Add to the list as you see fit. The jobs on a T that look easy aren't and the jobs that look tough aren't. Every things on the interweb. Except what people don't put there.
I think a nice New Day timer repo would be nice. The technology for a good material surely has to be available.
The repo brushes are pretty good. Now all we need is the timer.
$800 for a gas tank is steep!
More to add;
Fiber driven gear for AC speedometer
Cam gear for Atwater-Kent LA distributor in Std. and over sized.
New Day timer made of better material.
Rear axle gears.
Rod dippers made to fit cap so they don't have to be re-worked to fit.
All the items suggested so far, would be nice to have them in at least one or two of the major catalogs, not just for a few buyers sold by word of mouth or in one of the fine publications.
Brass floats similar to NH floats made to fit the earlier carbs. The cork floats seem to be the main reason people change to an incorrect NH. I know they have the new plastic like material to make your own floats from but that requires fabrication. Most people can't or do not want to fab them up. rain gutters and side trim for the wood firewalls (1919 to 1922 I think) A SCATT crank that fits into a T block with no modification to inspection cover supports. I know with the skill it took to make it in the first place they could have made it a little smaller at the counterweight area.
Luzianne is the best.
Quality 26-27 ammeter.
Donnie --The new-material floats are available for the Holley G carbs. You do need to have a good hinge from a cork float, but it's easy to install on the new float. I agree that a brass one would be nice, but the composite ones work OK.
I understand that new, correct exhaust pipes are on the way. I can't give details since I don't have permission from the maker.
Steve, sent you a PM about the nuts you're looking for. I make them along with other correct nuts and bolts.
Yes to brass floats, but also some of the other parts you can get for NH but not for G and other earlier carburetors.
R.V., that is good news about the exhaust pipe. Keep us posted! Dave
R.V., that is good news about the exhaust pipe. Keep us posted! Dave
Rear steel corner panels for the 17-21 touring 5 piece rear body.
Charlie B. - The video's you speak of are available through the vendors or MTFCA. I know for a fact that the coil rebuilding video staring The Coilman Ron Patterson is excellent. We used several of the other videos in our high school shop class speedster project.
For purchase? I'm talkin' free here. I don't know. enlighten me. And tell Steve J. He was havin' trouble with his band replacement job.
Early two piece timers.
Correct headlamp bulbs and quality roller timers.
New casting of the end piece that is riveted to the two-piece drive-shaft tube (end that bolts against the short universal joint piece).
New casting of the center clam-shell pieces for 1912 rear end housing.
Steering gear ball arm (Pitman arm) #3547 that is correct for 26-7. The later have a different angle to compensate for the lowering of the chassis.
Are they going to make the exhaust pipe as one piece into the muffler body?
26-7 horn bracket with correct material thickness and proper gussets.
Replacement thermometer for the motometer.
6v led tail light bulb that will fit in the 24-7 tail light housing.
Silvered headlight reflectors.
Rear axle bearings
New lightweight rods
Top Hat Oilers
I agree totally with the six items Donnie Brown and Paul Mikeska posted. I'd buy them today. Also correct running board splash shield with the rear bulge (1913 -16) would be most welcome. Also cast trim for around rear runabout deck 1913-22? and same pieces for around top of rear seat.
30x3 and 30x3 1/2 tires that last longer than 5,ooo miles!
Clincher tires sizes mentioned above made in USA!! Bud.
Floor mats that fit each year, without the stupid part numbers cast into the TOP surface.
The guy that makes new TT closed cab doors will be a rich man.
How about no more rear end collisions!
AC speedometer: Cable, swivel and wheel gear.
The cable housing is easy, just do an AC speedometer search in Ebay there are usually a number of them.
The wheel gears come up often on Ebay also.
The swivel (not really a swivel its a direct drive no reduction), not so much. If you are looking to mount it on the passenger side, that will be real hard to find.
The cable for inside should be able to be made by a good speedometer repair shop.
Front spring perches with a long enough threaded area to accommodate aTop and BOTTOM wishbone connection.
One thing our T forum world could use is a little less negativity from the "My way or the highway members" Just my .02.
How about 1925 open car floormats?
Clutch pedal shafts with the holes in the right locations, good quality cotton transmission bands, good quality repo U-joints, oil dippers that fit right without modifying, quality 26/27 ammeters, new steering gear cases, correct spring tie bolts, american made tires, new cowl tanks, new exhaust pipe and muffler like the originals , new bushings for Hassler shocks, pitman arm puller, new brushes for crystal timers, new winter radiator covers would also be nice.
Stephen,Hassler bushings were only 1/16 inch thick.Same ID as Model T,but only 1.2 as thick.Best fix is to ream them out to accept the Model T bushings.
Ross steering box
A good 5 cent cigar
The Ross box project is coming along. Hopefully in 2014!!
Jack, that's what I had to do but, it would be nice to not have to modify original parts.
I would love to have some of the correct "manhole" oilers, but I probably would not pay what the price would have to be!
Is this a beauty pageant ?
Correct late Ruckstell "Big Drum" I.D. plates.
Barn finds. LOTS more barn finds.
What about the thin brass channel that runs on the inside of the windshield frame?
rebabitted rods that are supplied with the correct length bolts so you can install rod dips and still get the cotter pins in.
1926-27 rear spring perches.
last time I ordered no 1926-27 brake cams in stock.
patch panels for 26-27 touring for top section between the doors.
Brendan call up Ford-N-More they have the fix for your rod issue.
Pre tar Scandinavia bands !!
Spoke Jack and a selection of tenon shims...nobody is making those. For those times when respoking just isn't warranted.
Verne,Glass setting channel is available from venders.
Thanks! I didn't look before posting. Years ago (1975?) I had my '27 Touring windshield done and they used a cork tape because we couldn't find anything. I have not really paid much attention to it since that time but didn't remember seeing it in a catalog.
Verne: The 26-7 models except for maybe the Fordor did use tape or fabric to set the windshield.
I would like to have a good set of directions, video/booklet, showing how to, correctly, install the roof and interior upholstery in a 1917 touring.
Brendan, We manufacture new rod bolts that are longer to accomodate the new oilers Glen
Well Dave D., maybe I did get an authentic job on my windshield. It didn't have any glass in it. I took it to the local antique auto glass installing experts and what I got back was similar to what you described.
Young T owners!!!!!!!!!!!
gas tanks that fit 26-27 t touring. i haven't seen any yet.
A repro nickel plated radiator shell for a 26
Young T owners and "Flying Doctors" to find solution to all the questions.
The cast grommet for the curtain rod on '26 open doors
The nickel plated cover that goes over the dash light.
26-27 Brake levers for the rear axle.
The stepped side curtain fasteners that go on the top irons on 26-27 open cars. I know and Model T and Model A is using the inner half, it seems that only the outer portion needs to be tooled up.
Original style metal fasteners for interior panels on steel doors. The plastic ones are too thick.
Some of ya'll older T owners should bequeath your T and T knowledge to us younger T owners! LOL
If anyone needs to be rid of a '16 or older touring car, my wife would be tickled. She got to ride in a friend's '15 wide track touring and fell in love. I told her it's gonna be hard to put the speedster on pause long enough to save for a whole other car. Also - I would be thrilled to be entrusted with a TT!
Some of you guys have WAY too many T's, at least more than you can fool with. I'll be glad to help with the foolin' department. =)
Mr. Brown of OK was making the brass floats. When he died, someone bought the dies and I have not heard what happened? They worked great, but they were costly. That may be the reason. I was going to make the Steven's frame, but when I got the cost together, no one would pay what it was going to take. Dan