I just got a set of new Non Original U Shackles and had a few questions about them. I noticed that the U end looks like it is pressed onto a knurled section and then the smooth section of the Shackle holds the Steel Bushing. The Length of the shackle arms is longer than the bushing. The bushing binds somewhat on the knurled section toward the U shape. Is this right? The original ones fit the bushing completely with no extra space.
Here is a basic picture of the Shackles.
This type of non original shackles the vendors sells isn't a quality product. I've always found good enough original shackles to use, but if you haven't got a choice perhaps you can rework them to be at least useable. First check on the spring and shackle you're using if the width is correct, then try smoothen the exposed knurled section with a file. Maybe the knurl isn't a big problem, it'll wear the bushing a little until the bushing isn't in contact with the knurl anymore, then no more. The majority of the bearing surface will work as supposed.
Considering Richard Eagle's recent mishap with a failed shackle of this type you may consider welding the pin part to the bracket part to avoid this:
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/401615.html?1384559326
That is a poor reproduction part. I would return it for a refund Adam, before someone gets hurt.
There are plenty of good original shackles out there to be used.
I agree with Royce. Find some original shackles with little or no wear, or better yet, get some NOS shackles. All it takes is determination on your part that you will find the correct part, and you will if you want to.
Damn, when it rains it pours. I received a bad Reproduction Spring Perch too. The hole for the spring bushing was milled way off center making one edge supper thin. I called and they are sending a new one but of course I had it all planned for powder coat today.
Does anyone know where I can get an NOS L type Shackle? My car is an early 1922 Touring.
I've been repairing the earlier figure eight shackles by welding them up then turning them on a lathe. But I've been doing that because the new ones are $240 a set. For the 1922 shackles, I'd just return the crummy ones you got and buy the correct new ones for $10 more. Of course I haven't bought any, so I don't know what the quality of the new ones is.
Royce and Larry are correct. If you're willing to take the time to haunt swap meets and auctions, good used or NOS shackles can be found.
Off subject just a little bit. I have stated doing as instructed for installing Model A shackles. Run the nut down snug then back off a turn to the next cotter pin hole. This is to keep the shackle from binding.
I don't think that the pressed in shackles are bad, if you look at your modern iron you might see that's how they are made. That being said, I only used that type once in my first T. They were a bear to get apart without a welder when the serrated piece spun in the link. The suggestion of maybe adding a tack weld might be good.