I read last night on one of the threads about there being no switch assembly exploded view...well, I just had to draw one, lol.
Anyhoo, the assemblies the vendor's sell doesn't mention if its the pin type back or the clip. My car has the pin, so I drew the one I'm most familiar with.
Martin you do a great job. Drawings like this can really help newbies to the hobby or most anyone who works on T's.
An exploded view of the T transmission and differential would be nice also!
Amazing drawing, thanks. That reminds me, my switch barely makes contact on the magneto side. Any idea which part I replace or is there a tab I can bend? Is that switch easy to take apart and reassemble for an average mechanical person or am I opening a can of worms. Thanks.
We make the pin type switch backs. They are available from Langs.
For my '24 I bought the 5012T (with 2 keys), took apart the complete assembly, and the new cylinder (made in China) is about .025" bigger (o.d.) than the pressed steel housing (i.d.) that it is supposed to fit in.
Put the old one back in and chalked up 2 wasted hours to crappy repop parts
Nice drawing, wish I had that before my misadventure
A year or 2 ago there was a post from a fella (I believe a vegetable farmer in Australia) whose hobby was Model T's - and particularly its transmission. He had a website up and running and the site featured an animated operating Model T transmission. Quite good - very fascinating. Unfortunately, although I "bookmarked" the site, the electrical gremlins seem to have caused it to become lost - or did I put it in a place that I would remember - but have forgotten.
Perhaps one of our fellow posters will remember the site and post the link.
In the meantime (for you or whomever wishes to draw some particulars) here are a couple links I did find.
Good Luck - Peace and Merry Christmas to All
Martin, the switch kits can be a problem. I've had experience with two of them, both ('23's) and was unable to use all the parts provided. They may have changed as this was years ago. However the contact plate (5012 in your drawing) is a big improvement over the orig. and solves a lot if not all the switch problems. I highly recommend,especially if your not adept as such repairs, to buy a quality switch new.
Here is a good animation and some views of the transmission.
Dave, I have fixed some Mag and Bat connection problems by cleaning the contacts on the plate that all the wires hook up to. All the contacts on the outside edge are part of the light system. The ignition is made by the center key operated brass arms. You can bend these arms a little outward to increase the contact pressure. Do not bend too much as it could result in the pin area breaking on that back contact plate. (5012PBQ)
Sometimes the back of the switch, originally a material like Masonite or heavy cardboard, becomes warped. Here's the fix:
A reason for the difficulty of fitting repro parts is that Ford switches were made by different suppliers. A part that fits one switch may not fit another. Several years ago I bought a kit for one of the tab switches and found that the notches didn't exactly line up with the tabs. It was easy enough to widen one of the notches to make it fit.
Martin, Amazing as always! Love those drawings.
Does anyone know what size and type screw and nut is used to mount the Switch Assembly to the dash?
Also my MAG is intermittent and I need to get this fixed. What part or fix am I looking for?
For an intermittent mag the first things I'd check are wiring connections, mag post, and switch.
Screws: oval head, 10-24 or 10-32 (the threads don't show). I used brass so they won't rust.
John Kuehn will this link help?
Martin,your drawing is fine except the two rivets holding the front plate to switch housing must be removed to access the lock mechanism.
Jack, yes I believe you're right, the switch handle is trapped between the front plate and the switch can (housing). On mine I took those out to straighten and pound out a few dents in the plate, then refinished it...putting it back together was a lot harder than taking it apart, I don't advise anybody taking it apart unless you absolutely have to, to do something with that bloody plate like I did.
I forgot to add, the lock comes out through the back after you remove the contact rings, the handle is the only thing that won't come out per the above description.
When I'm working on the switch, I always tape the key in the lock to keep the lock from falling out the back.