I am working on a 1915 tourer and to date have been unable to get one rear wheel off the axle. The other one just popped off normally with a hub puller. I have tried 3 different hub pullers and all slip off under stress (they can't be done up any tighter!). The hub has a thin sleeve between it and the axle. I have tried gentle heat to no avail but don't want to burn the spokes. Before I try cutting the hub up, I thought I should seek some ideas from those who have experienced it before. What should I try next?
This is what I do with stuck hubs and it works everytime. I loosen the nut just enough so theres a small space and then drive the car. I have that problem a lot with my touring car and sometime this is the only way to get it loose. Once I had to drive it five miles before it broke loose. I just stop every half mile a take a look at it. It it broke loose I re-tighten it to finger tight and take it home.
The hub mounted pullers usually do the job unless the hub puller threads and lock screw or the Fords hub threads are bad and you get no purchase to pull.
In most cases the 'knocker, type puller will do. You have to bang the knocker with a 5lb sledge And for most effective slam of the axle shaft thru the hub, have the stuck wheel down on the cement for holding the wheel in place and the other wheel off the ground or off as in your case.
More info on this earlier post:
I'm assuming you want to remove the hub and not just the wheel?
Here's what works for me:
1. Jack up the opposite wheel (put jack on axle of opposite wheel)
2. remove hubcap, cotter pin & nut
3. Buy a knockoff wheel puller from Langs ($3.25)
and screw on the axle threads all the way
4. Use a 4 or 5 lb hand sledge and give it a couple of medium raps (and NO, 5 raps with a 1 lb hammer does NOT equal 1 rap with a 5lb sledge !)
Works every time, no danger of buggering up the axle threads or nut threads, and its cheap!
I just did this this morning on my 1923 touring / pickup conversion. The driver's side rear wheel came off using the puller and multiple hard whacks with a hammer (a hand sledge, not a regular claw hammer). Give it a few whacks, try to tighten the puller as tight as you can, then more whacks, and repeat until the thing comes loose.
On the passenger side, the procedure above didn't seem to be working, so I adjusted the locknut to leave about 1/16 inch space, then drove the car about 10 miles, checking every mile or so to see if the wheel had popped loose. When I got home, the wheel still hadn't budged, so I went at it again with the puller and hand sledge and it finally came loose. I think the drive loosened things up enough to allow the puller to finally work.
When you do yours, have the wheel you're trying to remove on the ground, but jack the opposing wheel up. Also make sure the emergency brake is off so that you aren't fighting the brakes.
If it still won't budge and you're getting tired, leave the puller on it with as much tension as you can muster, then drive the car around with the puller in place. Be sure to have the locknut on with a little room so that the wheel doesn't come off completely when you're driving!
Keep at it, it will come off!
Thanks Will, Dan and Mark. You have each taught me something new which I appreciate. Wishing you all a joy filled Christmas. Phil