Rust in carburator

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Model T Ford Forum: Classifieds: Rust in carburator
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Tuesday, July 04, 2017 - 08:51 pm:

Well, dang.... got the rebuilt motor back in the T,yesterday,and putted around yesterday and today, hooking things back up, new bits here, and there, etc. Tried to start it,band no go. Have coil buzz, pulled a couple plugs, and they are sparking. Opened the drain on the cat, and have fuel there... but then pulled the coaeb bowl, and found a reasonable amount of rust. Cleaning it up, and will pull the jet and flush.

My question is, after sanding or wire brushing the surface rust off the inside oi f the bowl.. should it be finished with anything??

Thanks...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By J. Ryan Snellen on Tuesday, July 04, 2017 - 09:06 pm:

Thankfully i haven't had that problem before but have fuel in the bowl should be sufficient to ward off those rust varmints. Otherwise, I don't see any wrongdoing with taking a brush and applying a thin Red Kote liner like you may the fuel tank.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Joe Andulics on Wednesday, July 05, 2017 - 10:06 am:

Dennis, if you search the forum you'll find a number of people with similar problems. Some of those issues are the result of the use of gasoline with ethanol(not all). I've attached a link to an interesting article about a similar problem with marine engines. As far as coating the inside of the bowl, I'd avoid it. If it doesn't bond well it will eventually cause more problems than help. In my humble opinion. Good luck.

http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/SeaApr10Ethanol.pdf


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Lloid on Wednesday, July 05, 2017 - 07:50 pm:

It's this gas especially if a vehicle sits for any period of time.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Wednesday, July 05, 2017 - 09:04 pm:

spritz it with Ospho to kill the rust and reassemble when dry


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Saturday, July 08, 2017 - 01:08 pm:

Cleaned the bowl and needle came, still no go... took off and will go through properly, now!

The float valve I jihad replaced with the rubber tipped one a couple years ago. As many suggest not using this version any longer, is it OK to scrape the rubber off, make sure the tip is smooth, and use that Way? It actually looks good, and apparently wasn't sticking, as (I forgot about it just setting there) it fell out when I removed the float. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Saturday, July 08, 2017 - 07:28 pm:

The rubber tipped valve may in fact still be fine if it's only a couple years old...the seat certainly is... I'd put a jeweler's loupe on it and see if it has any tiny bubbles in the rubber. I've found that storage with ethanol fuel will do this to them. You want the rubber surface to be SMOOTH...a tiny ring from the seat is OK. Use of ethanol fuel will not in and of itself injure the rubber so long as the car is driven often enough to refill the tank periodically


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Keller on Sunday, July 09, 2017 - 01:53 am:

"Rust Bullet". THE BEST rust remover.I have used it over and over. Never ceases to amaze me.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Sunday, July 09, 2017 - 08:49 am:

Scott... the tip certainly did look OK, even with magnification, but when carb was put in normal position it woukd momentarily stick befor deopping down when the float lowered, so I swapped it out.

I'll have to check out Ospho and Rust Bullet. I uaually bbq use Extends, but didn't see where it was fuel proof or not. I read above bbq or in a related link that someone blues the inside nb of their carburators.... so I gave that a shot, as I had some available.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Sunday, July 09, 2017 - 09:42 am:

Dennis

actually, it is common for the rubber-tipped valves to stick momentarily under that circumstance. However it isn't a fierce stick like a Grose Jet sometimes has which will cause problems. The vibration of the engine and head pressure of some fuel will open the rubber tipped version. What you installed is probably fine so long as the tip has a good finish on it (some don't), but it wouldn't hurt to drop your old parts into a "usable" bin for use in the future should the need arise


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Sunday, July 09, 2017 - 02:34 pm:

HI, Scott ...
Ahh .. good to know! I only changed TO it, a few years ago, as it seemed to be the rave at the time. I had ordered a new 'standard' one at the time, also, which is what I just put in. I did keep the rubber tipped one, and it's seat as spare. I need to finish an emergency bit bag to go in my on-board toolbox, and that will be one of the bits!
Thanks!
Dennis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Monday, July 10, 2017 - 08:53 pm:

Just as an update... the steel tipped needle and accompanying seat worked wonderfully, after I also drilled the airway plugs, cleaned them all, and replugged! It took right off. Ran great after minor adjustments! Well... for aboutn5-6 miles, then I apparently lost a thrust bearing in the rear end... so yet ANOTHER rebuild! Argh......


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