This is a Frontenac T head that's perfect except for a small freeze crack. The crack could easily be brazed or medal stitched or welded. I had plans to build this head but I have to many irons in the fire. It comes with original valves, springs, and keepers. The head doesn't look like it was ever decked.
$1800 plus shipping
Call Daniel 831-278-2742
This head is a touring head
$1700 plus shipping
This is a good head and Daniel got it from me in a little trade deal. Daniel is great to work with.
I have had many Fronty heads and know them well. It is very common to find them with a front corner broken where the water neck bolts on, this one is good. If you look at photo #6 you can see the amount of material from the bottom to the circle where the spark plugs go...there is lots there and normally they have been "hogged off", sometimes right into the circle. I don't believe this one has been on a mill. Don't do that! The shinny material around the break is lead...when I got it somebody had made a lead patch and I heated it up and wire brushed it off to expose the break and was pleased to see a repairable minor fracture in the best spot, not across the top.
This one can be brought back and is better than a butchered head that has been machined beyond limits for no good reason. With some work this one is a better example and should not have head gasket problems, I have seen them milled right into the water jacket.
Keep it off the mill as it is not pitted and anything taken off can't be put back on. My grandfather threw my first Fronty on his bench and dressed it with a large file to knock down high spots around the head bolt holes and with a new gasket and copper coat I have never had a leak. I also use studs and not bolts so nothing gets stripped in the block with good torque.
This is a very good casting to work with and I did not see any other problems in the valve seats.
Should have added as close to new as you will ever get!
Thank you Tim!
$1600 plus shipping
$1500 plus shipping
I forgot to mention that I bought a new set of springs, and they will go with this head once they arrive.
What Tim Moore talks about these heads is VERY important! Back in the '30s and '50s, everyone had the notion that they HAD to raise the compression as much as possible. Many people took every OHV head they could get and had it milled to the limit. Most heads that can be found and had today are victims of that bad idea.
Raising the compression to that last cut makes very little real gain in performance, totally useless for a driver antique, and of value ONLY at the top end of full racing. Milling a head half too much makes them weak in the mating areas where the thermal expansion stresses are at their greatest, and therefore severely prone to cracking and blowing gaskets among other problems.
I have never run an OHV on one of my model Ts. This in part to the fact that I really couldn't afford one. Also, my ego never required that level of stroking. And also because most of the times I was tempted to buy an OHV head I found it had been cut too far to be a good head and therefore didn't waste my money on it.
I like these things. Kept looking in here to see if it has sold. I don't know who bought it. But I suspect they got a good one, and hope they have many long years of enjoyment from it! And I suspect they got a bargain!
Good luck! And don't mill engine heads any more than you have to to make the head flat and for the gasket fit properly. On almost any engine.