I cannot seem to find a low head in good condition for my 1914 touring. Most are marginal at best after 103 years with rust out and leaks through the water jacket. I have been told that the reproduction Z head may be the answer however it is the high head design. Can a Z head be adapted to use on my 1914 or should I continue to search for a low head? Also is it good practice to seal the water jacket of a head with POR-15 or some type of rust sealer? Any information would be appreciated!! Thanks, John
The Reeder aluminum head was a low design. I personally donít like the Reeder because I had problems with leakage between cylinders two and three. I had it milled and the problem persisted, may be the aluminum was soft.
If you use a high head you will need new bolts and may have clearance problems under the firewall. However it can be done, I put a Prus head on the 15 Speedster which has fairly standard engine compartment.
In my experience the Prus is superior to both the Reeder and the Z heads.
I have a Reeder head on my '14, and as Tony said, it is a low head design. With this head, this engine has quite high compression. This car is hand crank only & you can really notice the high compression when hand cranking it.
Thanks Keith and Tony for the information. In your opinion can you sleeve the bolt holes or when doing so do you run the risk of leakage with heat up and cooling down of the head? Using stainless sleeve and reaming out to achieve the hole diameter? A friend owns a machine shop and said that he has sleeved heads in the past on flat head fords?
Tony, a mate in New Zealand and I both had the same problem with Reeder heads. There is a large water gallery in the head which sits above just a steam hole in the block. We solved the problem by welding up the head and just drilling a corresponding steam hole.
Allan from down under.