Would like to swap my 1915 non-starter engine for a starter engine. Because of medical issues, I can't be "crank'n" it over. The more complete the better. Should be in WI area or possible shipping arrangements from elsewhere. PLEASE, no "boat anchors", must be rebuildable/useable complete starter engine/trans. PM me OR email@example.com
if you're willing to rebuild your replacement engine, why not just add a ring gear flywheel to your '15 and put on a '19 or later hogs head?
so much less work if your original engine is still OK.
Got most items to convert over
Hogs head flywheel ring gear and starter
Bendix cover all good clean parts accept starter
I'm with Scott on this. I just redid my '15 engine and used a later flywheel; that's a pretty inexpensive, easy fix compared to buying and/or rebuilding a complete engine. You also need a later hogshead.
I bought a starter from Ron Paterson. I use a 6V Optima battery, it fits under the back seat. I use 2/0 battery cables, and the ground goes directly to a bolt on the engine pan.
When we put a starter in my dad's /15 Roadster we used a solenoid mounted to the body sill, and we put a small black push-button switch in a bolt hole where the cowl and windshield brackets meet. I don't have a picture of that, but you can figure that out. It was a very clean appearance and worked great.
If you have a good cable and ground system the 6V battery will work fine, and you won't have to charge your battery often. I bought a 6V 'Battery Tender' and connect it every couple of weeks to trickle charge the battery, and have had no issues.
"HOT DAMN" guys, this is really good stuff !!! I don't have a heck of a lot of spare parts so I would have to scavenger the needed parts.
Scott, the 15' engine is great, car came outta museum in MI. Good friend (Dave Stubenvall) offered and came over to get it started. When we got it started we were so anxious to drive down the road that we completely forgot about putting the top up (raining cats & dogs). Soaked and laughen our a$$ off !!!
Bob & Gary, that's good advice and that's where I'm leaning now, thanks guys.
Glad to hear it John, you will save a lot of money and I'm sure you will be pleased with the results. My dad had MS and that was why he added the starter and hand controls, and it extended the time he good drive a T by a number of years.
I bought my 2/0 cable on eBay, along with solder on logs and solder pellets. The pellets have flux in them but you still want to drip a little on the cable itself. NAPA sells heat shrink in red and black that is heavy duty for battery cables. You are better off soldering them than relying on crimps; it takes special, expensive tools to properly crimp that large of cable.
By running the ground to a bolt on the engine pan you will have an excellent ground, and the starter will spin very well.
The rebuilt starters from Ron Patterson are well worth the expense, and are the same 'best quality' ones that Lang's sells.
As you proceed, if you want pictures of how I mounted and grounded my solenoid, or ran my cables, just PM me and I will email them.
JOHN, I HAVE A REBUILT 26,27 T SHORT BLOCK, GOOD OIL PAN HOGSHESD, TRANS IN PCS, I WOULD LIKE TO TALK TO YOU MY # 563-468-1454, IN ILL THANKS CHRIS
Well guys, this posting sure has paid off !!! I had some real good options and the responses were fantastic !!! I sure appreciated you more knowledgeable guy's input as I'm not that far (YET) !!! But I'm learning everyday, that makes it really interesting to me, thank you Forum.
I gave Chris Nelsen a call last night (heck of a nice guy), and we came to a "gentleman's agreement" over the phone on a rebuilt engine/trans. Both parties were satisfied when the dust settled and "the check is in the mail". Not that far away either, Moline IL. So I just wanted to let you guys know that everything has worked out great. Did learn something new, that you can use your designated engine and make conversions over to make a starter engine, purdey neat stuff !!!
Gary, Scott, & Bob: please don't think you wasted any time by me choosing another route. I had taken your advise seriously but the deal I made with Chris was fantastic. Sheeeze, I'd have to be a damn fool for not taking his offer.
Don't sell your old engine
Installed or not, if you ever sell the car, it will be worth more with the old engine.
Also, you will be making some new front floorboards, I think, as pedal spacing on a late hog's head is different than early.
Spacing of the top radiator hose will be a little off with a high head, but that is not too difficult to manage.
You'll need to put your old fan, fan bracket, and belt, on too, as the late fan will hit the radiator.
With a generator now, you'll need to rewire the car to include new circuit(s).
Geeeze, wished I had someone close by that I could lean on in situations like this. Been wanting to and still plan on starting a new chapter in this area. I know there's "T" guys around but where the hell are they when you want them ??? There sure is a "need" for a chapter here but I gotta get my health straightened out first.
I thought this was going to be easy !!!!!!! and NO SCOTT I'll never out-right sell that original engine, it'll go with the car someday.
Ditto what Scott said.... your installation will be more involved, but it's doable. The '15 engine, particularly if it correct, you want to keep with your car. The '15 engine I referred to earlier that I am running is what I just installed in my '11, simply because I don't want to take a chance of destroying the original engine (the car is a driver).
Hopefully you received all of the details on the rebuild, i.e. who did the babbit, crankshaft and bore sizes, and balancing details.
"NOTE TO SELF", I'll get that info to you Gary about who did the rebuild, hopefully Chris will read this posting and respond. Supposedly some older gentleman who's done this for many years. I still need to put the transmission together (in a box), which I've never done !!!
I've had alotta years experience with the Model "A"s, but these "T"s are "a different batch a cats". Not afraid to tackle it but sure don't want to screw it up either !!!
john, I'm picking up the shortblock Monday afternoon.the new babbit was poured at a machine shop in Arizona. mains & rods are .030 under. new alum pistons are .060 over. 350 chevy valves with new springs and keepers. thanks chris