Hi, I would like to have the correct carb for my 1911:
• Holley H1- 4550 for 1911 with a two-screw top plate and an air pipe clamp. The clamp was eliminated in later production 1911.
•Kingston 5 ball
Please let me know if you have one of them.
PM me. Dan Hatch
I'd like the second one that Mario passes on, please. Our 1911 is also missing the correct carburetor.
I realize that 100+ years can partially explain why so many carburetors are missing from brass Model T's purchased these days. But why? Were these early carburetors not very good and therefore were replaced over the years by simpler carbs such as the Holley NH? Then where - other than to Uncle Stand's ranch - did all those original brass carbs go that we can't find? They couldn't have ALL gone to the WWII war effort to be melted down into artillery shell casings! They have to still be somewhere!
I am posting this open question on the discussion board, too.
They are out there. I see 5 ball carbs for sale at least a few times a year. The H-1s are common but not the one with the clamp. The 4500 is a rare bird indeed. I've only seen a couple. Russ Potter had one all restored and shiney a few years back.
Believe it or not, I found a 1907 Kingston, the type used on the Models N and R, in great shape at Bakersfield for $10. Every so often a blind sow finds a pasture.
Most people have never seen a 4500 would be my guess.
This is another one most have never seen. This was the predecessor to the 4500, it was used on the NRS.
Some of the experts will undoubtedly tell me the knurling on the adjustment knob is not correct. I don't know, I didn't have more than one to look at and the photos in the encyclopedia are too grainy to show it. So when I made the knob I knurled the pattern pattern to duplicate what was on the old knob.
On the second Holley, note the way the fuel inlet attaches to the carb and the design. It has a very short thread inside the stepped nut.
Back to the shop.
What is under the cap on the 4500 is a brass plate/disk/knob. It just rises and falls from air volume and gravity. The balance is supposed to regulate the mixture at various speeds. The ones I have done -- several at this point -- all have holes drilled in them to lighten them, some of which have then been filled with solder to add weight. They must have test run them and adjusted them at the factory or had some weight standard they tried to get them all to match.
They run OK, my guess would be they were an attempt by Holley to compete with the Kingston air valve 5 ball. I would guess that as soon as Holley could figure out something that was more easily adjusted and ran better they dumped the 4500 as quick as they could. They are pretty marginal compared to other designs. If that air valve does not seat well you can crank until you can't pull the crank anymore and it won't start the engine. All I have seen have a groove worn .030 or more in the face of the air valve and the shaft it slides up and down on is worn half in two. P Poor Design in MHO.
Here is an Ernie Brown repro 4500 Holley. More pictures on the forum thread about early carbs. Dan
I wonder if some of the early carbs with no choke were replaced for that reason? I also wonder how well the tickler worked on a up-draft? Bud.
They actually work pretty well, if your valves are in good shape and you have good vacuum. None of my "T"'s have a tickler, but my 1906 Queen runs a Schebler model E with tickler. For that car, you have to flood the carb until it actually drips gas, then 2-pulls- ignition off w/ 1/2 throttle, then 1/4 throttle w/ ignition on and it fires right off. Seems every car has it own starting ritual, but I think they work fine...I think the choke put an end to having to open the hood to flood the carb, to start the car and/or end of having gas dripping out your carb when starting.
For the stove assembly, Someone have the tube which ran upwards to a cast stove fitting against the manifold at the front? Where we could find a Stove kit assembly?
Mario, I have a 4500 and the pipe that goes from the stove at the front of the manifold to the air horn. It is rather thin and has an unwelded seam.
When I ran the carb on my 1910, while restoring my 5 ball, I used the pipe I mentioned and the same stove purchased from one of the vendors for my 5 ball. The pipe is narrower but still fit the contours of the stove. Its a good running carb. The only thing I replaced was the float and the large nut where the gas line enters.
Stan my adjustment knob has the same knurling as yours. Mine has a very slightly larger bevel on top and bottom. But for my call, yours is right on the money. I did notice my air relief opposite the ticker is larger in diameter than yours. My Holley Bros plate is interestingly placed under the air valve housing. Actually one side of the plate is next to the ticker and extends under the air valve. I guess its the only place you could place it without impinging on the air relief or the tickler.
I haven't yet figured out my new software to be able to upload photos. Sorry about that.