Copper terminals, just like original...not brass, not threaded rod with a hole drilled through it...actual, correct terminals made from correct material.
CAUTION: Not cheap...they go for $7 dollars each (or go elsewhere and pay a whole buck less for an imitation part).
Please send PM. I spend days in my shop and will respond in the evening
Still have stock remaining. Order before 10/31 otherwise they will be placed into storage and become part of my estate and get pitched someday.
So long as knockoffs made from wrong material are available for a buck or two less than these, almost no one is interested in the real deal. That means these are the first and last to be produced, at least by me.
Anyone in business knows that not all products are winners. At least they can't kill or maim you like lawn darts, so what have you got to lose?
Scott, maybe you ought to bump them to the top once in awhile. I had forgotten all about them. I don't need any right now, but for sure that doesn't mean I won't. Just a thought. Dave
Scott.Looks like You have a fine product that most any body in the market for starter terminals would be interested in. You just haft to get the word out and keep spreading the word, Do any of the old car parts houses carry Your products. and how long do a pair of terminals last in car's that for the most part aren't driven a lot of miles. Seems like a low demand product You build a batch and then when inventory gets low You start another production run. What other products do You make and sell besides the terminals. If I ever need a set I want the real thing made from copper.
When I first started rebuilding starters and generators I could not bring myself to use brass terminals, so made my own out of copper...then foolishly thought I'd make a bunch. This is not something that goes bad like a bearing and there are a very limited number of folks willing/able to tackle the job of replacing this part...it was simply an ill-concieved introduction into the parts business, that's all. There is one supplier who carries this product. I would never wholesale this part again, though, as the cost reduction places my labor rate into the toilet and I have better things to do. And yet I'll bet that supplier still hasn't sold what they bought from me.
I make the T-Vac which is a vacuum adapter and gauge to diagnose engine faults (presently out of stock, but planning on another run soon), and also make an NH Float Valve that has the original sized orifice, with a viton tip. It works very well on any car and especially on cars that often pull long or hard hills. The common replacement valve will tend to starve the carb of fuel under these circumstances, especially if low on fuel and head pressure is low.