Here is a rebuilt big-drum Ruckstell rear end, which is correct for 1926-27 Ford cars. Buy it now and install it this winter, so you'll be ready for next year's touring season.
I replaced lots of worn parts with new ones. Here is a list of the new Ruckstell parts:
P-160 Differential Housing
P-89 Gear Pins (set of 3)
P-158C Long-Nose Shift Lock (Big bucks!)
P-158C-BS Bolt Set for Shift Lock
P-147 Notch Plate
P-146 Sliding Gear
P-128S Ring Gear Bolt & Washers (set of 10)
Non-Ruckstell new parts include:
New Axles (from Lang's, 1/16" extra length for accessory brakes)
1 Brake Drum Backing Plate (one was damaged, one was fine)
Inner and Outer Bearing Sleeves
Inner and Outer Neoprene Seals for outer bearings
Brake Cam Bushings
NOS Spring Perches with new bushings
After I disassembled the rear end, I took the housings to my local powder coating shop and had them baked in their oven to remove all the oil and grease from the inside and out. Then they sandblasted the outsides. When I got them back, they looked like brand-new parts. I assembled the "insides," replacing worn parts where necessary. I used the best original Ford Script ring gear I had in stock. It has been used, but it shows very little wear. You can see it in one of the pics. I had new bearing sleeves and excellent used Hyatt bearings in stock. I painted the completed unit using Rust-Oleum Self-Etching primer and Valspar gloss black enamel. I built it the way I would if I were going to install it in my Model T.
This is the complete rear end, without the drive shaft, radius rods, and brakes. If you have a '26-7 rear end under your car now, you can transfer those parts to this new rear end and be ready to go. I don't have those parts for a '26-7 car, or I would include them.
You can pick this up in NW Arkansas to save the cost of shipping, or I can deliver it to Chickasha in March for no additional cost. Otherwise, you'll need to pay the actual shipping cost. I can take it to a local truck terminal if you want it shipped by Freight, but it would need to be in a wooden box for that. I'll build a box for it and deliver it to the terminal for $100. I have a local Fastenal store, so I could take it there to be delivered to you. You would need to initiate that with your local Fastenal store. They will accept items strapped to a pallet, but there is no guarantee against damage if they ship it that way. I'd recommend a box. There are several options, so it's up to you how you want it done. I'll do all I can to accommodate your wishes.
The price for this nice rebuilt Ruckstell is $2,800. I have 20 hours' labor in it plus all those expensive new parts, so all I'm making on it is a decent wage. If you have any questions or need any more info, you can call my cell phone at 479-790-4229 or email me at firstname.lastname@example.org. Thanks.
It's a shame you have it all buttoned up, needs to be split again to set the lash on the pinion, other wise it's just guess work, too tight, too loose, too deep, not deep enough etc etc.
7 bolts with nuts. Cordless impact. Two minutes, max.
That's to split it Stan. Then you have to juggle axle thrust plates, bronze thrust washers, etc to get it all in the right place within the housing, to set the correct gear mesh. It would take me your two minutes to properly blue the gears so I could find out just where to start making adjustments.
Perhaps I just am getting a bit slow, but I have never been able to keep up with Ford book times!!
Allan from down under.
I've rebuilt over 70 Ruckstells.
The previous expert told Mike he should not have bolted the housings together.
I am well aware of what it takes to rebuild one.
I hear that Glenn Chaffin now has reproduction "Big Drum" Eaton Ruckstell etched brass I.D. tags. They're pretty nice.
These are the ones with the beveled corners. Give him a call.
Frank & Allan -- It doesn't need to be taken apart to mess with the thrust washers, etc. All that is done and correct. As Uncle Stan says, it's a simple matter to loosen the 7 bolts just a tad to allow the spool to slip into place. All that needs to happen then is to set the drive shaft & spool at the optimum depth to have good gear mesh. It is not necessary to use bluing on the gears to do that. You can bolt it together and turn the U-joint by hand to see how it feels. If the gears are too close, you will feel each tooth as they engage. If they are too far apart, there will be some noticeable slack in the assembly. Fine adjustment is made using the paper spool gaskets as shims.
I don't have nearly the experience that Uncle Stan has, but I have rebuilt several rear ends, Ruckstell and otherwise. I always adjust the ring/pinion gear lash using this method, and it works great.
Getting the right gear lash usually involves a shim under the ring gear. Good side to side clearance of the Ruckstell innards within the axle housings doesn't insure the proper lash. Spool shims only increase the lash and may result in poor tooth contact.
I am with Allen on this one.
Mike, what you say will give a rear end which will work. Backlash can be set just by moving the pinion gear in/out to set the lash. BUT, it will not necessarily give you the correct gear mesh for optimum life. Nor will it guarantee that the gear teeth will ever be in full mesh.
How often do you see gearsets where the teeth have worn excessively at the heel or toe while the rest of the gear is in good condition?
To get a full width engagement on the gear faces requires that the ring gear be adjusted to fit the pinion gear so that there is full contact across the entire face of the gears. This can only be done by juggling the crown wheel/diff assembly within the housing. Get the pinion too close to the ring gear and the contact will be too low on the gear face, and vice versa. When you have the correct contact between the gear faces, backlash is a given.
It boils down to getting engagement of the gear teeth for the full width first. That means the pinion gear is set into the diff half to the correct depth first. Then the diff centre/crownwheel [via shims under the crown wheel or by swapping thrust washers and plates] is
juggled to get the correct depth of mesh.
Others and other references do it differently.
Allan from down under.