Rear Spring Shackles - Are they hard to removet & install?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: Rear Spring Shackles - Are they hard to removet & install?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jon Allen on Wednesday, January 01, 2014 - 05:57 pm:

I have a new set of axle housings, but the rear spring perches are missing. Is it difficult to remove the old ones from my old housings and put them in the new ones? Neither Lang's nor Chaffin's nor Snyder's seems to carry them. Chaffin's has what look like rear perches pictured as part #3843, but I cannot find them in their parts list anywhere.
Does anyone have any experience with this???
Thanks for any help,
Jon


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jon Allen on Wednesday, January 01, 2014 - 06:26 pm:

Never mind! I already answered my own question. I called Chaffin's just now and Glen Chaffin himself answered the phone. That might not be so unusual except that it is NEW YEAR'S DAY and the Rose Bowl Game is on! Bless you Glen. There is a place in heaven reserved for you.
The answer is that the rear perches are not a force fit, but are bolted in, so it will be easy to swap them from the old axle housings to the new ones.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Wednesday, January 01, 2014 - 06:26 pm:

You jack up the car and install jack stands under the frame to support the car. Then remove both back wheels. Remove the brake linings and springs. Lower the rear axle until it is hanging by the spring. Continue to support the rear axle with a floor jack.

Loosen (don't remove) the nuts that hold the spring perches to the backing plate. You will be able to jack the rear axle until the shackles can be easily removed one at a time for replacement.

No reproduction perches are available. You can buy originals from a number of sources including me.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Wednesday, January 01, 2014 - 08:49 pm:

It always helps to mention the year of your car. The '26-7 perches are considerably different. If your car is 1918 or earlier, then there will be no holes for oilers. If I don't use a spring spreader, it helps to loosen the castle nuts on the ends of your perches. Also note that if you have a late T, the U type shackle goes in from the front, not the back.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 09:28 am:

Larry, Jon is working on the rear axle on his car. My first car with U shaped shackles is my 'new' US import 27 Tudor. Should the closed end of the U shackles at the rear be to the front of the car, with nuts to the rear?

My car has the riveted shackles and I will be replacing them. I would have just gone ahead and installed them with the closed end to the rear.

Help!

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 09:45 am:

The U shaped shackles should have the nuts facing rear. The reproductions are quite weak, they just fall apart long before they show any wear.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jon Allen on Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 11:27 am:

What I am doing is installing a Ruckstell rear end (rebuilt by Stan Howe) in my '14 runabout. Here are a couple of pictures (the rear end to be installed and the existing spring perches - still in the car):


Thanks for any help or comments,
Jon


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 11:27 am:

Here's a picture of one of the poorly made reproductions that failed on my '17 torpedo runabout after a couple hundred miles.

Also shown are a later forged U shackle (1923 - 27) and a forged U shackle with grease fitting provisions, perhaps made by Hassler.



Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 11:29 am:

Jon - you just leave the shackles hooked up and disconnect the perches from the backing plates as I described above. Then lower the rear axle and install the nice one that Stan built.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jon Allen on Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 11:49 am:

Thanks mucho, Royce! I will keep you posted. Just to be a restoration heretic, I am also putting in some Sure Stop brakes on the rear.
For me safety trumps originality.
Jon


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Nathan Bright on Friday, January 03, 2014 - 07:29 am:

If you want to build an easy spring spreader than get yourself some 5/8 steel pipe and 5/8 all thread rod. I measured the distance between the two eyes with it in the fully relaxed position and then subtracted 6" from both sides. Then take your allthread rod and sharpen two 18" sections to resemble a cold chistle on one end of each section. Then using a nut and washer you can slide them into the steel pipe and tighten them against the spring in the notch formed between the top of the eye and leaf. I then measured took a 3.5' section or so and slid it in the center of the pipe and then put it on a shop press to put a bend in the center of the pipe to go around the rear end. The pipe is now essentially 5/8 bar stock with the all-thread inside of it and it is very strong. and an easy 30 minute project that will outlive all of us! :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jon Allen on Friday, January 03, 2014 - 10:34 am:

Here is another question related to this. Stan installed floating hubs (from Texas T Parts) in the rear axle housings. The brake cams are also in place. I have assembled the driveshaft and differential. Now I am getting ready to put on the radius rods. But there is a problem getting the radius rods to line up properly with the bolt holes. The front of the rods are in place with the nuts run all the way down, but the rear (split) ends of the rods do not clear the axle housing and/or the brake cams. Stan says it is Ok to just "spring" the radius rod a little until it pops into place. How best to do this? I don't want to damage anything...
Thanks for any thoughts.
Jon


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Clayton Swanson on Friday, January 03, 2014 - 10:41 am:

rods should go on before the drive shaft, opps! of course, i just heard that, i would never, um, do such a thing.


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