Body is almost ready for paint. Now for the window cranks. The pot metal rollers are swollen and froze. Any one have any ideas on replacing the rollers at the ends of the lift arms?
I am fairly certain it is against forum rules to comment on a Fordor restoration without photos.
Sorry, will go out and take a picture of the crank later this morning!
OK, the pictures of my dilemma. The pot metal rollers on the window crank. Any ideas about replacing?
picture of the roller.
after the roller is removed and post cleaned up
Finished the body work on the 26 Fordor today.Sanding and paint, then will share updated photos of the car'
Dale, can you remove the "axle" that the roller spins on? Maybe make some new rollers from aluminum or bronze? Just a thought. Dave
On my fordor I just left them bare. I also put bearing grease on the tracks and they work just fine. I couldn't come up with any other solution that would keep the arms in the track.
I buy those large rubber stoppers that are used to cork up beakers in chemistry. I first punch the size hole needed in the middle with a piece of pipe. Sharpen the outer edge of the pipe to a taper and chuck it in your drill press. Very slowly drill down through the stopper for the roller.I then cut the taper off the rubber stopper with my band saw and fine tune the shape with my bench mounted disk sander. Pop it on over the roller and you now have a rubber covered roller. I also buy the smaller rubber stoppers and use them as bottom window bumpers.
I have also shaped the rubber stoppers to fit into the door frame to replace the old hard rubber that the door closes against. Again just use a bench sander to shape it. Make it a little large and it squeezes into place and stays.
I had this same situation with the roller on the window regulater arm. When I tried to get it to turn, it all just crumbled. My fix was a piece of plastic material that I found at a hardware store that had the same ID as the shaft on the arm. I can't remember what plastic I ended up using, I may have selected something slightly smaller ID and drilling it out. I then cut to the length needed and then made a diagonal cut along the length so it could expand over the end of the shaft (shown in a photo above). The diagonal cut was made to hopefully will allow the plastic to freely rotate on the shaft. With Lubriplate type grease on the plastic and slide, it works very well.
Just found flanged bushings at McMaster-Carr, think I will order some to give a try. Nylon for about $4 and bronze for about $1.50. I will let you know how they work.