Clutch pedal free travel

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: Clutch pedal free travel
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 04:43 pm:

I have another alloy transmission cover in which to install oil seals, but would like to repair worn pedal ramps on the first gear pedal first. Given a new old stock pedal and ramp, how much pedal travel is to be expected before the pedal starts to engage on the ramp?

Hope someone can help.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 06:00 pm:

The clutch pedal engagement of low should happen about 1" above the floor regardless of new or old parts. You want as much travel as possible prior to engagement to ensure the maximum amount of clearance between the band lining and the drum when it is not engaged. Good new parts will give you more clearance. More is better.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 07:44 pm:

I'm thinking Allan is asking about the free travel before the pedal starts moving side ways. High and Neutral range.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 08:58 pm:

It moves about 1/2 way down then starts moving in to compress the band. The band is completely compressed when the pedal is 1 inch above the floorboard. Note, the actual movement down will be dependant on the wear in the link between the pedal and the high clutch. If there is a lot of wear, you can pull the pedal back by hand and it will still start to compress the band about 1/2 way down. If your pedal is not new, and it is off the hogs head, this would be a good time to weld up the hole and re-drill to remove excess play.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike on Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 10:37 pm:

If he's in the middle of fixing it up, then giving him a reference point to the floorboard won't help if it's not in the car anymore.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 11:50 pm:

Hal has it! How far can the pedal move before it starts moving up the ramp sideways.I once welded up the pedal ramps to take all the movement out!!!!

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter Kable on Friday, January 03, 2014 - 03:10 am:

Allan, I replaced my clutch pedal when I returned to pick up my T at the Museum in Richmond in 2011.

I had noticed on the trip over to Indiana that there was little sideways movement to clamp the drum. Pedal would go down close to the floor but not move sideways much. Here is a tracing I did of the two pedals and how far they move.

clutchpedal

On the left -In high gear
in the middle in neutral - the good pedal/cam (cams touching)
on the right worn pedal/same cam (cams touching)

Hunting around I found a good pedal and a cam. What happens is if the parts are worn the pedal moves down a long way before it actually moves sideways.

If you think about it if the pedal is in neutral it should be ready to begin clamping the band immediately. You only get about 1/2" sideways movement. If you weld or use parts which allow the pedal to move the maximum distance you have the best pedal available. As you intend locking the drum so it does not slip when you are in low it makes sense to have as much ability to do this as possible.

Where you then adjust the band is up to you but if its left loose as many would say to do you are going to use a lot of pedal getting to a stage where its gripping the drum tight enough to stop slipping before you run out of travel to the floor.

Being the clutch pedal when it is in neutral it also has to be able to move back away from starting to move on the cam to allow high gear to work. The other two pedals don't need that when new they rested in the cam slot and moved to clamp the drums straight away, unfortunately virtually all pedals are worn, a lot too much.

I presume you are talking RHD, the cams on the pedal and the hogshead are on the outside and don't get the advantage of being in oil so its a bigger problem than often is the case with LHD but as its the pedal that does the most work it wears more than the others usually do.

Also the clutch being on the left means it can hit the hogshead sooner than LHD so its more important that you don't have lots of wear.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Friday, January 03, 2014 - 05:17 am:

Thanks Peter, I am looking for the difference between your left pedal outline and the centre black one. If your tracings are full size it looks like about 2" from second gear to the start of engagement on the cam. I thought that might be a bit much, so was looking for input from someone who may have had some new parts to compare. If I weld up the ramps on the pedal, I will be looking at a bit less than 2". I am sure the gap will widen some as the welded area gets to know a new ramp.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter Kable on Friday, January 03, 2014 - 06:16 am:

Allan, I think the result should be that the pedal can move the maximum distance sideways and you get travel back to allow high gear to work.

The drawing is full size, but the pedal was good not NOS so I would think that the movement from the left to the center would be less than it shows on the sketch.


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