I am a new T'er and new to the board though I have been following along for several months now. We are helping our teenage son build his first car, a 1915 Model T speedster (his choice). As members of the wonderful Southern California chapter of the HCCA we have found tons of support and encouragement for his project. The garage is slowly filling up with spares from members who have been so generous to help our son get started in this great hobby.
We are not new to old cars having been very active with vintage MGs, Chandler cars, and a '68 Mustang over the years. Model T's are a whole new world. It's funny I have spent most of my time at swap meets avoiding T parts as they may look like they are right for a 1929 Chandler, but are very different.
Now we are building a period correct speedster. We have the block and head off at the machine shop to be checked for cracks. I know if it passes we will need to have new babbit poured. Who do you recommend we use for this specialized service? How much should we expect to pay?
Thanks in advance for your wisdom.
You will get good work and your best price from Pat Linderman, Fredericksburg, Texas. If you ship block and crank separately they can go regular UPS.
If interested, send me a PM for his phone number. I have one of his engines in my 24 touring.
Antique Engine Bearing Service
Best in the WEST!
Happy New Year!
I can vouch for Vic & Dale in Escondido. They have done all five of my T's and several for my customers. I think current pricing for 3 main and 4 rods is about $500, give Vic a call.
I've also had very good work done by Vic and Dale.
They do fine work at reasonable prices on time.
Why do you think you will need new babbit? Rods maybe....but you can buy them from suppliers rebabbited to your size. Mains are another story. Everyone thinks that because the engine is old or worn that it needs new mains. I have rarely seen mains that need replacing. If the block you have has really failed mains, then get another block. You can always get replacement main caps to any size.
Don't forget to crack check the crank as well
$500 for mains AND rods????
I have been paying $200 for rods and $600 for mains.
Go to Escondido.
Vic & Dale are a good bet. Dale lives, or at least used to, in the Anaheim area. You can drop your block and rods there and he'll haul them back & forth to Escondido.
Looks like I have found the shop to take the block to. In checking the block there is little if any babbit left that is why I feel the need to take the block in.
Once I get the crank out of our "newer" block (1920's starter model) I will have it checked and measured to see if it can be reused.
I plan to buy the rods along with new AL pistons when we know the condition of the block from one of our Model T suppliers.
I also endorse Vic and Dale. Vic lives east of Escondido and I think Dale lives around Fallbrook. The work is done at Vic's garage. They have done one engine for me and another for a friend for whom I was rebuilding the engine. Both cases have had good results.
Chris, Since it is going to be a speedster; I would recommend you take a good look at working on the 20's block. You can always block off the generator and starter. Later you may want an alternator or generator. I had a choice between a 27 block and a 16 block to rebuild for my speedster. I wished I had rebuilt the 27 engine and transmission. the engine and transmission are much improved over the 16. Plus it would be easier to add an alternator, for brake lights, turn signals and other safety items. The chance of being run over by the traffic of our day is a factor.
Results from the machine shop are in and the block does have several cracks in it. At this point it maybe be best to use the nearly complete block and transmission we have in the garage. We will see what we do next. thanks again for the continued input guys.
My wife really likes your ides Kevin of using the later block.