So how many parts are interchangeable?
Having difficulty trying to weld and grind/file the pedal cams back to standard. The cams that bolt to the transmission cover look like they will interchange with the LHD but things for the brake pedal (Think you call in the slow speed notch) have the rotation ground the other direction. Do you have any helpful hints for grinding worn cams without making a special profile grinding machine?
The brake pedal shaft (you might call it the low gear shaft?) does not appear to be available oversize for my year transmission but it would certainly fit the worn hole better. Short of drilling/sleeving/honing which nobody seems to be willing to do or no longer has the tools for is there an option?
Kep, I had the same query a little while ago. You are right. The bolt in cams work for both RHD and LHD. When re-building the pedal ramps I use a mig welder to build up the worn faces. These I dress down roughly with an angle grinder and thin cutting disc. Then its out with the bearing blue and a hand file to get the best contact possible.
I make my own shafts from 5/8" rolled steel shafting. I do not know if RHD and LHD shafts are the same. It may be that the relationship between the holes for the pedal rivets and the cam rivets are different.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
While you RHD guys are working on hog's heads, take a few pictures for us LHD guys. I'd like to gain a better understanding for how the RHD transmission worked. A while back, there was some discussion on which way the bands clamped and whether there was any self activation going on. Can you post some pics of the pedal cams installed?
I second that request. I too would like to see how the thing works.
Ok, I dragged out my spare hogshead... the other one, an aluminum 1913 is on the car with my only low pedal.
You may have to hit "refresh" if all 7 photos fail to show up.
So here goes:
Only the Low pedal has a cast in cam. The removable cams go inside on the reverse and brake pedals thus:
Here is a comparison between RHD and LHD brake pedals:
And reverse pedals:
The cam for the low pedal bolts on the outside:
This last should answer some questions:
Note that the Brake and reverse adjust from outside whilst the low requires you to pop open the access plate to adjust. Just the opposite from the LHD set-up.
Now we see the set-up in my 1913... I took the liberty of coloring it all red for easy visualization!
This photo shows the low pedal with it's removable cam.
I had to make up my own pedal shafts to get them right. On this brake shaft you can see that I left it long outside the pedal to accept an interlock with the auxilliary A/C brakes... works like a champ!
I've just finished rebuilding my correct 1911 aluminum RHD hogshead. These early aluminum hogsheads are very fragile and I had to weld up several cracks. The shafts are all different from LHD ones so new ones were made. It's on the car now and I'm getting full travel on my clutch and brake pedals but on the reverse pedal it only moves about 2 inches before it's tight on the drum. This is with no adjustment needed at all. Is this normal? On my LHD cars the reverse pedal moves all the way to the floor before engaging and then I can adjust it closer as needed.
Ken, where is the reverse pedal when its off?
It should be back further than the others
I have just resized this photo I hope it is not too small, in it the reverse pedal is in its most backward position.
This may be better
That settles it for me. All three bands are self energizing, just like on the LHD models.
Thanks for the photos.
Thanks for the photos. Do the reverse and brake use the same parts on the left side as the US low band for adjustment?
Ken, My aluminum hogshead came to me already repaired. The reverse pedal had been stomped down hard enough to break the casting where the pedal struck it. The casting had been welded there. I cured this problem by turning a new shaft and setting the pedal so I could get full travel. When I was done the pedal ended up set forwards exactly like the one in Peter's photograph.
This photo shows the hogshead repair needed when the reverse pedal is allowed to strike the casting. I think this happens due to worn shaft or cams. I suggest initially setting the pedal position so that it will not hit the casting even when the band is fully worn out. The problem I had with this is that in the seating position required in my car's body it is difficult to get your foot back to reach the pedal.
This photo also clearly shows the cast in cam on the low pedal (the pedal on the top of the pile).
Thanks Peter and Terry. My brake pedal sits The same as both of yours. My concern is that it only moves about 2 inches before it clamps tight onto the band. This is with no adjustment at all. Seems to me I should have more travel than that with no adjustment. I've tried different bands with old and new material. It doesn't make any difference to the pedal travel. It's not dragging so maybe it's not a big deal
Ken, that should be fine.
The test is:
Is the drum able to freely rotate when the pedal is at rest. You can easily test this by jacking up the wheel and have someone turn the engine over while the handbrake is in neutral. If it is not binding its OK.
Often you will be told that you must have a lot of travel, but if the band is not dragging on the drum then it is not a problem. There is so much oil being thrown around in there the lining will get oiled.
The further the pedal goes down before it clamps the band the sooner it is eventually going to hit the floor or slip.
As reverse is used the least it will be years before you have to adjust it after initial bedding in.
I always adjust the other bands the same way as my take on it is if the bands don't touch the drums no wear will take place and you will have the maximum amount of movement in the pedal to apply pressure on the drums.
I'm sure someone is going to log in and say you need to let the pedals go down closer to the floor but I have never been able to get an answer as to why ??
Thanks Peter. I'm going to leave it and see what happens. Like you say it shouldn't be a big deal.