Jim Hycner's Paint procedure

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: Jim Hycner's Paint procedure
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Dimock, Newfields NH, USA on Friday, January 10, 2014 - 12:47 pm:

Jim can you give a bit more info about your witch's brew paint job? "A mix of Penetrol, flat black oil base and boiled linseed oil."

Amount of each item and application method!

Wondering if you used a broom :-)

This might have been covered before but it certainly looks interesting.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Friday, January 10, 2014 - 12:55 pm:

The very earliest Gus Wilson/Model Garage stories were how-to articles. There's one where Gus brush paints his car and it's informative as hell for back in the day procedures. The website with all the stories is: www.gus-stories.org. Their listed by year and title.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Friday, January 10, 2014 - 01:01 pm:

Wow. That's kinda like using a super model to show off a new line of potato sacks. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Dimock, Newfields NH, USA on Friday, January 10, 2014 - 03:22 pm:

Ken

You can't tell a book by it's cover! :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Hycner on Sunday, January 12, 2014 - 08:26 pm:

Fred...Almost missed this post.
The process is pretty simple and low budget. Clean the metal with Prepsol solvent to remove any grease or oil. Mix 80% BOILED linseed oil with 20% flat black (or whatever color the car is) oil base paint and add a few ounces of Penetrol to help it flow better. Apply with a brush. Let is sit for an hour and wipe of the excess with a clean lint free cotton rag. It will take a few days to dry. Be careful with the used rags because they can spontaneously ignite. Any original finish will come back glossy and look like it was just painted. My door jambs look like 1926 again. the original pinstripes and few spots of original paint on the body look real good. The surface rust now has a satin/gloss black finish but can still see a bit of the rust look. An extra coat would cover that up if you wanted.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Dimock, Newfields NH, USA on Monday, January 13, 2014 - 09:52 am:

Thanks Jim Got your email -

Looks like a good way to maintain the "original look" while protecting the surface from further damage.
I have been using MMO to stop the surface rust but want something more permanent.
Sounds like I'll need to do a lot with the Prepsol due to liberal amounts of MMO. :-(

I will do it on both my T and A when the weather changes and I have time.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Hatch on Monday, January 13, 2014 - 11:11 am:

Jim: Any before and after pictures? I have 23 touring that needs this done. Thanks, Dan


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Dimock, Newfields NH, USA on Monday, January 13, 2014 - 12:07 pm:

Dan I think you can look at Jim's profile picture to see the before and either this thread or his previous one to see the after.
I was amazed at the difference!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Dimock, Newfields NH, USA on Monday, January 13, 2014 - 03:32 pm:

Before and after pictures are here

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/411944/413225.html?1389592175


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