Check it out! I've been taking POR-15 and thinning it with thinner to an almost water state then applying it to the body wood and spokes to where it soaks in to the grain almost like a stain.
For the spokes I apply a couple coats letting it soak in then topcoat with a paint to protect the POR-15 from UV light cause you know the POR-15 will fail in direct sunlight.
The finished product is wood encapsulated in polymer which water beads right off of. I did this to my top bows and body wood and it works FANTASTIC!!!! I'm pretty sure this care will survive rot and corrosion now
So the POR-15 is white? Will scuffs on the spokes show up as white scratches? Does POR-15 come with a black tint in it, or can you tint it yourself... maybe some Gilsonite? (^:
No that black that you see is the thinned POR-15! 50% POR-15, 50% thinner, soaks right in.
Now on mine I've painted the spokes red. What I did was apply the first thinned coat, let it soak in then applied the second and when that was tacky I shot the red topcoat over it so that way the paint dries with the last coat of POR-15.
Did the same here too!
Painting all of the adjoining surfaces and dowels will add about 1/8" to the overall size of your spokes, making it virtually impossible to press them into place. You may find, like I did, that in order to be able to press the spokes in, you will need to scrape off the paint from the dowels and from where the the spokes press against eachother. Jim Patrick
I do the same procedure to my wood, but I use Quick-Poly instead. Its a 2 part polimer that set up fast and soakes into the wood very good. I never used the por-15 like you are but it should work great.
You haven't put it together yet!
If the wood needs something like Por 15 or Quick-poly to make it solid, is the wood safe to use? Dan
Here is the thread from 2011 documenting my experience, trials, tribulations and eventual success in installing new spokes on my right front wheel. I hope you can learn from it and avoid some of the mistakes I made. Jim Patrick
Since this thread, I have since learned from others that a styrofoam cup makes a good collapsible support for the teepee that holds the teepee in place until the cup is crushed by the press. I'll use that next time.
Jim, I clicked on your link and got the following error message:
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/411944/415590.html?1389806978 from 220.127.116.11
/discis/messages/179374/183733.html 404 - not found
Our 404 message
Chris Brancaccio - 2013
Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1) AppleWebKit/537.36 (KHTML, like Gecko) Chrome/32.0.1700.76 Safari/537.36
Maybe the older thread has expired?
Awwwww Sssssshhhhhhuckins! Let's try that again. I need to remember to always try my links before posting them:
That one works, thanks Jim!
Thanks for sharing this with us. I have used Por-15 on metal but didn't think it would work on wood. Let us know how it works long term.
Since this is about painting spokes, I figured I would post an alternate method which really worked for me, in 2011, using hand brushed oil based wood primer and gloss black oil based enamel. What is most desirable is the way it settles out after being applied by brush. Jim Patrick
Doggone it. Posted the wrong one. I need to go back to bed! Here is the correct one on painting wooden spokes:
The slow drying of brushed enamel does work very well and enamel doesn't dry as hard and resists chipping. I used Dulux enamel over Varathane or Wood-Kote in 1980 and the wheel paint has stayed in excellent shape since then.
These are brand new shagbark hickory spokes from Stutzmans, suuuuper awesome work!
Yes you're right Jim Patrick! But the coolest thing about the POR-15 application this way is that is just sucks right into the wood if you thin it 50/50 like this. Two coats and they are nearly black....more of a translucent black, and you can feel the grain still.
Now my mistake was to actually paint them before installing them so as Jim Patrick said, I had to sand a little but I only had to sand the red off. When I hit the POR-15 impregnated wood it was still dark and protected. Here's the finished product
OOPS! Here it is