I plan on signing up for the MTFCI High Country Annual Tour and would like to change to a Ruckstell but I can't find one...I don't really know where to look other than ask if anyone has one in driving distance that may be interested in selling at a fair price....My stock rearend is in good condition with new parts but the high country would definitely be a lot easier with extra gears.... Any help would be appreciated....Chet
Langs and the other suppliers sell the complete Ruckstell Axle conversion kits. Thats the way they came back in the day. They say all parts made in the USA and everything needed. Price= 2070.00 for the 1919-25 and 2240.00 for the 1926-27. In Langs catalog. 75.00 core for driver side housing or send them one. A little pricy but a used one is not cheap either and you do not know for sure how good it is ... And do not forget to add auxillary brakes of somekind ... A ruckstell in neutral is not a good thing, especially in the mountains ...
I've thought about doing that but like I stated, mine is all new and I would like to keep it all together for a spare.... If I could find one that's complete I would rebuild it or I would at least tear it apart to check it out and replace what ever needs to be....I know this is the wrong forum to ask if anyone knows where a person could find one but I have looked on the classified ads ,ebay and craiges list but haven't had any luck....I thought I'd give this a try, it can't hurt to ask.... I will also go back to classified and post there also....
Chester, Get you a handful of money and go to Chicksha in March.
I would love too but things here just will not allow that to happen. I hope to be able to make that trip one day. As of now I just go to the local swap meets but not many parts found for T's.
I have a couple for sale. I have a small drum that is all apart cleaned and inspected, I had it on the classifieds last fall and never got a call. I have a big drum I bought but haven't picked up yet. Should be pretty good.
I've rebuilt or built up 69 of them, I'm not doing any more since I just don't have any more hours in the day and am selling off all my extra parts, kits, etc.
They are very hard to find in good condition around here, there used to be a lot of them, I've pretty well cleaned out the guys that used to have a half dozen of them standing up in the corner waiting for me to come offer them money. The small drum one I have came from a guy who had it for at least 40 years, I was going to keep it for myself but decided I'll sell it and if I ever need one I'll probably have enough parts left to build one up. I also have a couple extra small drum housings and a couple big drum that need a little work. Sold a big drum awhile back.
I caution everybody who is going to buy one that has not been taken apart so you can see what it looks like inside to take a fist full of twenty dollar bills, soak them in gas, throw them up in the air and strike a match. Some of them, more or less one time than another will fall to the ground unburned, some times they will all burn and sometimes only a few will burn but you don't know until you try it. Same with buying a Ruckstell you can't see inside of or one that is not cleaned up so you can see what it really looks like. I got burned in Lethbridge at the swap meet two years ago, I bought two that looked good from two guys I trust, got them home, everything in side was rusted beyond use, both housings were bent and broken with old repairs covered over by dirt and grease. For my $1500 I got two rebuildable shift locks. Nothing else. On the other hand, I bought one at a farm auction for $300 that was pristine inside, housing perfect, shift lock like new.
However, I won't buy anything that hasn't been taken apart so I can see the wear on the thrust plate, axle holes, etc. unless it is cheap.
The big drum I have is in Lewistown, bought it and a couple 26/7 engines from a friend. Might or might not have time to do anything with it before Chickasha. Probably not much except take it apart and clean it up and see how good or bad it is.
I've been selling off "Kits" the same as the new ones they sell only with all used parts. You can build it up yourself. They aren't all that hard to do if you take your time and pay attention to some clearances. I recommend a new bearing, new pinion pins and gears and either replacing the bronze thrust plate or machining the wear away. That usually fixes most of what needs to be fixed.
www.modeltruckstell.com is my web site; there is still some info and pictures on there, I'm going to let it run out when it comes up for renewal but it is still up for now. You might want to take a look at that for some ideas.
Chester, I see a great looking 26 Tudor in your profile pic so another option might be to look into using a Layne Warford. I've had Ruckstell's in 3 of my T's, and put a Layne in my latest car and prefer it to the Ruckstell because of the positive neutral and the under/overdrive. You can keep your current rear end and find another drive line and radius rods to cut which are far more plentiful than Ruckstell housings that aren't broke.
I too would follow the advice above and put outside brakes on.
Plus, since the improved cars carry a little more "girth" I used a 10-tooth pinion on our coupe, but find that the low Layne gearing is only good for about 23 mph tops at higher revs on a long hill climb which is pokier that a std 11-tooth using a Ruckstell in low. The Layne OD with the 10-tooth is more than adequate for 40-50mph for our Coupe. I may swap the pinion out with an 11-tooth sometime in the future.
I would think you'd be interested in Chaffin's Ruckstell conversion kit. Even if you rebuilt the axle, you'd be re-using most of the new parts you installed anyways with the exception of a couple you'd have to replace. That way you'd know what you have. It would also probably be cheaper in the long run than gambling on finding a used Ruckstell axle and hoping it is in serviceable condition.
Wayne, I haven't read much about those except the advertisement which really reads well. Couple questions: 1. would they very noisy inside a enclosed sedan? I have read the old ones were but maybe the new aluminum casings and gears changed all that and 2. what would the price difference be... I'll be doing the installation, I'm speaking of a new Warford versus a rebuilt Ruckstell? As for brakes, I am ordering a set of Texas T Disc Brakes Monday.. Wife said the way I drive she will quit riding with me if I can't stop...You know woman, they always exaggerate, I've been stopping just fine, well maybe....And by the way that's a good looking Warford in yours...Thanks for the picture...
Chester, I looked at a Warford too and went with the new Ruckstell. Last I checked a new Warford is still about $300 more expensive than Chaffin's Ruckstell kit, and that's not considering any additional welding/modification/support mounts a Warford will require. That's why I bought a Ruckstell kit for my '26.
The difference in cost between a Ruckstell and a Warford or other aux transmission is this: If you put a new $3000 Warford in you still have to rebuild the differential. New ring and pinion, axles, pinion bearing, sleeves, etc., etc. So now you have $4500-5000 in it if you do it right. If you buy a Ruckstell kit and rebuild the rear end you have $3500 in the whole deal and now you have a rebuilt differential. In my opinion the best combination you can have for most T's is a Ruckstell with 3:25 to 1 gears, safety hubs and all new axles, drive shaft & roller pinion.
There are still quite a few good used Ruckstells around and parts are readily available. There are two excellent books on how to do it. For 1000-1200 you can buy a good rebuilder that will need very few parts. Put another $1000 in it for parts, axles, etc., pay attention to what you are doing and you can have a good rebuilt Ruckstell and differential for a couple thousand dollars and some work.
I have an empty housing, w/out shifter firstname.lastname@example.org
Chester: PM me I may have an extra 26 Ruckstell that I will sell. I am in B'ham. Dan.
Chester, no I do not find the Layne all that noisy in any gear inside our enclosed Coupe. Kevin covered the price difference. Like Stan, I followed his advice and rebuilt the rearend with safety hubs and the driveline with a Fun Projects pinion bearing. I sent my driveline to Layne to shorten it, but I had to shorten the radius rods. I have Rocky Mtn brakes, but your path to the disc brakes is but a dream for me at this time. Happy choosing !! W
Wayne, Did you have to cut the running board bracket in order to install the Warford. It looks as if it is right in the way.
He shows that area being cut in the photo above.
Don, yes when installing the warford,the front running board bracket has to be cut and the floor metal at the base of the seat needs to be trimmed on later vehicles. Texas T use to modify the drive shaft for free when you bought the Warford from them, don't know if the still do it.
I did the 14 touring and about five customers cars, no problems that I know about. I have restored several Ruckstells, not to much to choose between the two approaches, if your axle is good then the Warford is probably best. If your axle is unknown, then the Ruckstell is marginally better. Either way, I will not do a customers car without external brakes, disc or Rocky Mtn.
Thanks Tony, I actually like the Warford under and over but I don't want to cut anything on my car. I do have original Rocky Mtn. brakes.
Chester, Here's another approach to consider.
I found an original alum Warford not far from my house and installed it. I love it especially after fixing the a simple leaking issue. It shifts with no clutching and is not too noisy even in OD. Originally it was quite a bit louder but with driving it now isn't distracting. Maybe it's my hearing but I don't mind it. It is quieter.
Something to consider: The Rux has only Two gear ratios where most Warfords have Three. I think this is worth some extra money for that additional gear. I really like the underdrive especially in residential areas, parking lots, parades, and loading on a trailer where a low gear is preferred. With a Warford you'll find you hardly ever drive again in low pedal other than from a standstill.
My advice to you is to ride or drive both and then you'll really know which one you want to do.