New bearing setup hitting drive shaft tube

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: New bearing setup hitting drive shaft tube
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Howard Sigler on Sunday, January 19, 2014 - 06:16 pm:

I have a new fun projects rear bearing setup. It works great ,but the set screw is rubbing on one side of the tube. No welds or bumps anywhere close. I measured a .060" difference from side to side. Can I just grind some off of the side that is rubbing? How much can I take off? BTW it is a new drive shaft, not bent.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth from NC on Sunday, January 19, 2014 - 06:48 pm:

Mr. Regan will probably be on and comment to give you the official final answer, but make sure you have the collar plenty tight. As long as you do and you aren't really grinding much, shouldn't be a problem. May just be the new drive shaft and a slightly tighter housing working against one another. Anyway, you should call John tomorrow or Tuesday if he hasn't posted and he will have the answer. One of the best vendors out there.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Sunday, January 19, 2014 - 07:05 pm:

When I installed the same bearing set up in my 21 Touring I simply ground off a little of the set screw head. It was doing the same thing as you mentioned.


I also used a die grinder to remove an even amount the circumference of the drive shaft opening.

After I did the above no more rubbing and all is OK.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Sunday, January 19, 2014 - 08:22 pm:

First make sure that you have the drive shaft tube centered on the spool. You didn't mention which version you have but the open spool is later type 22-27 and it can be slid slightly off center and will cause the set screw to rub. Is the set screw beveled at an angle along its edge since it is relieved and should easily clear the inside diameter of the driveshaft tube? I don't like the idea of grinding on the head of the set screw since you are applying an unneeded fix in the wrong place just because it is easy and you should see that the set screw is already beveled for added clearance beyond what you need. The ability of the collar to handle side thrust is directly proportional to the torque of that screw and it is more than adequate for any downward force on the collar. It could simply be a case of loosening the 6 studs and repositioning the spool on the drive shaft tube to get it better centered.

I was at a going away party for a T friend who is moving to Montana. Just got back home.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Howard Sigler on Monday, January 20, 2014 - 09:34 am:

John, I have the closed spool version and can't reposition the spool. I was going to grind off some of the tube on one side were the set screw is rubbing. Just wondered how much I can take off and not weaken the tube. I don't think I want to take .060" off the whole circumference.

Thank you for your response

Howard


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Monday, January 20, 2014 - 09:56 am:

Howard:

It is likely hitting where the tube is welded since it is a welded seam tube. You only need to grind where it is hitting and only down into the tube about 3/8". The early tubes seem to be the more crudely made and some have a pretty sloppy weld on the inside of the tube at that seam. Notice that the tube is inserted into the casting and the rivets are well down further into the tube so grinding the tube at that shallow a depth near the top does not weaken the tube assembly. The instruction sheet covers this operation but it can vary a bit from year to year with regard of how much metal you need to remove. Wasn't the set screw beveled (shiny metal edge on the black set screw)?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Monday, January 20, 2014 - 10:10 am:

Howard
When I installed the new bearing set up in mine and noticed the set screw head was rubbing I loosened the spool bolts and centered the drive shaft the best I could. It moved very little if any. After checking some other drive shaft tubes I did notice that some of the other tubes I had in my barn weren't exactly the same opening dia.
I don't know if some were machined +or- when they were built at the factory. Maybe they had a tolerance to follow. Don't know.

As many were made I would bet they didn't all come out exactly the same dia. Maybe the tubes were extruded and left like they were. Don't know that either.

The drive shaft in mine was centered real close as I remember and after I did the (slight machine work) all is ok.

I don't think I have ever worked on a T where everything just fell into place. Its just their nature. Maybe its just me. I will definitely buy another of John Reagans bearing set ups. I do recommend them highly.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rick Goelz-Knoxville,TN on Monday, January 20, 2014 - 10:24 am:

On my 26 there was a lot of slag around the tube a little Dremel work and all was well, no problems on my 24.

Rick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Monday, January 20, 2014 - 11:56 am:

To all:

The inside dimension on the Ford drawing is of course different for each end. The spool end should measure 2.189 to 2.197 inside diameter but Ford had a more precision size dimension on the OD at that end since the tube had to slip inside the casting and then be riveted in place.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Howard Sigler on Monday, January 20, 2014 - 01:31 pm:

First of all, I want to say the fun project bearing is the way to go when redoing your rear end. It's easy and fast. My problem is the drive shaft tube opening on the bearing side is off center .060". The I.D. is 1.905". I tried another tube I have and it's off .040", the set screw rubs here too but not as much. I can't use that tube as it's no good. My question is can I elongate the opening on the thick side of the tube .060" or so and still be O.K.? It only rubs for a half in. So I would only have to grind that half in. down .060".

Yes John R. the set screw was beveled and I filed all welds down. It's rubbing about 1/8" from the opening. This is a 1914 tube with no rivets at the spool end just welded. The welds are down inside the tube about an inch and a half and not interfering at all.

Thanks again
Howard


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stan Howe Helena, Montana on Monday, January 20, 2014 - 01:48 pm:

Just change out the little set screw to a button head Allen head screw. The head is much thinner but the screw is grade 8 so there is no loss of strength. Grind or turn (if you have a lathe) the head diameter down until it is just slightly larger than the Allen boss. All your rubbing problems will go away. I do this on every one I install rather than fooling with trying to get the supplied one to quit rubbing. Since I used to ship Ruckstells with the receiver installing the drive shaft and radius rods I had to come up with a fool proof way to make sure it didn't make noise after installation.

It is a 1/4 x 28 thread and those Allen head screws are readily available in any length you need. If you can't come up with one locally message me and I will turn one down and mail it to you. I bought a 100 piece box of them just for this fix.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stan Howe Helena, Montana on Monday, January 20, 2014 - 01:49 pm:

Ford was whacking out those tubes so fast it is hard to find one that is centered. I've seen them that are easily 1/16th of an inch off.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Howard Sigler on Monday, January 20, 2014 - 02:15 pm:

Stan, I turned the shaft upside down and no rubbing. I don't think I want to do that though. The grease cups are facing down. I'll keep your offer in mind, thanks.

Howard


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