16 touring: reattaching splash apron and running boards.
Aside from the question I have from my previous thread (which I'm working out)I'm having difficulty attaching the splash aprons. In the attached photo, I have the aprons attached to the body (the the body bolts go through the apron holes and frame brackets).
However, as you can see the apron really sticks out way too far to attach the running boards. I have tried forcing them back and have even messed up up the paint job on the aprons in doing so. I don't think they could have flattened out in the two years they have been off.
am I missing a step here? Should I continue to force them back?
Any photos would really help.
RB sets on that lip and should slide back far enough to insert bolts. You can always re-arch them over a telephone pole,so they are easier.
should I just force them back and fix the paint latter :-( ??
Only you can make that decision.
Michael: Did they get sandblasted? Dan
hi Dan....they got bead blasted
Sounds like that took the some of the arch out. About all you can do is re-arch, make them fit and repaint. Sorry, Dan.
Michael -- I'll beat Larry Smith to the punch and tell you those are splash shields, not splash aprons.
yep..I read that from 2013. It's good to know and use the correct nomenclature. Otherwise, a hundred years from now our grandchildren will be calling them all sort of things. :-)
I've used cargo straps to secure it around a large Oxygen bottle.
I got one side together...brute force and invented a few new words.
wow...what a lot of work. I thought this would be the easiest part.
hopefully, the other side will go easier.
I will need a little paint touch up :-(
Have you checked to make sure the running board brackets are in their correct position?
Although you may be able to force/adjust the splash Shields to fit, the fenders will not be as easy to make fit or impossible to do so if the position is not correct.
Nearly every chassis I have worked on required readjusting the brackets especially if the car has been dismantled as the brackets end up being stands for the chassis when its moved around and they usually get bent, especially the early ones.
If you have not, check the RB brackets to make sure they are out and down from the chassis rails the correct amount.
Mike: You did indeed beat me to it! BTW, Russ Furstnow is changing the judging guidelines to reflect this. It's a lot easier to identify parts when they are referred to by the correct name.
Michael, you have unconsciously learned the first lesson in T restoration. Always check the fit before final paint. This rule applies even to re-assembling a known car. Not that this is much help for you right now. Sorry for your problems.
Allan from down under.
Thanks Allan...hopefully the painter will be able to do the repair without taking the splash shield off.
Peter..the running board brackets were not taken off the car (they are riveted on), nor were they used to support the car. However I did replace the rods that run between them.
I had the same problem on my 16 touring about a mouth ago. I finally took the running board cross braces off and then put on the aprons and running boards, reinstalled the cross braces and then ran the nuts out on the braces to get things back in place. I had to run a die on the cross brace threads and extent them to get the travel required
Thanks Brendan...I finally got them on. Now just to add lock washers and tighten everything up.
Fitting is a big job on restoring a T the little white 1911 we did last took for ever but on about the 3rd time We took it apart I said that was it it's not going to be taken apart again, so on the 5th time apart I was done! Then my painter took some pictures as he was working on it..... Yea the body was on saw horses and the fenders were on special paint racks.... Ect ...yep it was taken apart even again.
So I've learned after working on a 09 touring 11 roadster and a Centerdoor you have to be ready to disassemble many times to tweak straighten bend, adjust most of the parts that's just part of it.
I would submit that the main thing you need to do is start with a frame that is perfect or as near perfect as you can get it. I made a drawing of the frame for just that purpose. It is a CAD drawing made NOT from measurements I made but from dimensions taken directly from Ford frame drawing. It is amazing how far off the dimensions of an actual frame can get from all the twisting and flexing of daily use of a T. Front cross members are almost always sagging a bit and very few frames are flat on top and the running board brackets are bent all over the map.
Check your dimensions against this drawing and it might at least give you an idea of which part is causing most of your alignment issues.
I agree with John that you need to start square and plumb as this gives you the best chance for things to want to go together square.
Others may disagree, but I find that the best chance for getting things all tied up is to also assemble all pieces BEFORE trying to mount to the car and leave them assembled all but the final turn as you mount them on the car. Yeah, it makes it a 2 man job...but the frustration level stays on mild.
Thanks Steve and John....
In my case the prior front cross member was actually cracked - almost in half. I'm sure that put some new twists in the parts over the years.
Throw in some bead blasting, and a couple years off the frame during the restoration, and it's no wonder i was struggling.
At this point, everything is back together, and i just need to tighten bolts. The second side was much easier.
The painter said he can fix the one spot i messed up without taking the splash shield off the car.
Looking forward to finishing this one so I can start the next one!!!