Just respoked my second wheel and had the below (pictures) happen.
Its an aftermarket hub, non-Ford script and a slight bit undersize from what I gather.
I pressed it in and its not super loose but just enough to where you can dump it out if you turn it to the side.
The spokes are nice and tight, fits well together too.
So what would y'all do, pour some epoxy or POR-15 around the circumference to take up the space????
If i was you I looked for a right good used one that fit your wheels.
Patrick, if it was mine I would just make a shim to take up the slack, unless you can find another hub easier. Dave
This hub is like brand new which is the weird thing but it is non-ford for sure. Old and period but not ford I'm sure.
Anyone else have this problem????
get a ford hub,even tight as I am in money,a wheel is not something I want wobbling and leaving me broke down or worse.
Plenty of hubs can be had and cleaned up,probably for postage.
I think something else is at play here, if the spokes are the right length they should be much tighter than that even with the hub out. I have changed hubs out that were a bear to remove even on old wheels. KGB
Patrick: There are 2 different lengths spokes for Ford or Kelsey or Hayes felloes. Ford felloes are 20-3/4 inch inside diameter and Kelsey and Hayes inside diameter is 20-13/16 inch. So there spokes are 1/32 inch longer than Ford spokes ... Do you have the proper Felloe/Spoke/ combination.?
It does not look like a hub I would use. Hubs are common and cheap. Get a real one.
This is a bit fiddley but remove the spokes and place a .002 washer/shim (lead or brass) over the tennon and lightly dust each bevil. There are tools available to repair loose spokes, one to spread the spokes to insert shims at the hub and one to spread the rim to insert shims under the tennon
If the spokes fit tight to the felloe and the wedged sides of the spokes are tight and only the fit around the hub is loose, you can shim them with tongue depressors or even popsicle sticks. you can whittle the sticks on the leading edge and drive in with a hammer. Try to get the same amount of shim on each side so the wheel will run true. I have done this and my wheels will run a long time that way. It is important that they are tight against the hub so that it won't move back and forth as the wheel turns. After you wedge the hub tighten the bolts and peen. Drive a while and check for tightness. It should work fine. If this doesn't work for you, you can look for another hub. There is no guarantee another hub will fit any better. The problem might be in the spokes.
Norm, I don't think you can drive something in and get it sufficiently tight or even all the way through. I have tried it in the past and it just does not work. Been there and done that!. I would think at the very least you would have to glue the tongue depressors or other quality hardwood shims to the hub ends and re press the hubs in the tee pee fashion.
I would not fool with bandaids on a vehicle that my family and I ride in. This costs $20.00 to do it right...what's your life worth to you? Great to save a buck when it makes sense, but this doesn't.
Get a real FORD hub. Some aftermarket parts, sold in the Model T era, were notoriously poor in quality, to the point of being dangerous. Ford published warnings against the use of "spurious parts", usually illustrated with images of broken spindles and wrecked cars.
Your first warning that this hub may be in serious doubt is that the manufacturer couldn't even get the hub nose diameter correct. What else is messed up? The metallurgy?
Be safe, always.
Ford hubs are plentiful. You should have no trouble finding one.
Don't at least use that hub with those spokes.
Or, don't give someone you love a ride!
I have a spare front hub you can have.