The search function claims we haven't had one of these posts this year, so I'll start.
Wire brushed and chased axle housing bolts and nuts, and removed burrs & bumps. Tomorrow I'll paint. I'm doing enough for two rear axles with a few spares left over. It's little chores like this that really use up your time.
Lapped the valves while waiting on my new pistons to come back from balancing.
I spent today thinking and dreaming about working on my T. I've got transmission bushings being reamed at the machine shop and I'm holding them up because I keep forgetting to bring them the shaft. I'll come back maybe tomorrow and let you know what I did.
I tightened up the reverse band which you can do externally on a RHD.
It ran beautifully in last week's Mornington Peninsula rally except for the moment when the wooden coils lost contact with the coil box, they had shrunk during the recent heat wave, four days over 40C (104F)
I was going to take my 22 Touring for a test drive today but it was too hot there in Australia at 37C (99F).
This week will be even hotter but next weekend should allow a cooler time to drive I hope.
Fired up the reconditioned engine/Trans in my 16' Touring and went for a short test run. It was a pleasure to share the occasion with Kerri Van Ekeran who did the rebuild and with David Dare who is a regular forum contributor. I also invited my Dad who first restored the car 41 years ago. It was good to see him enjoy a ride in his old car. I look forward to some fun trips with him when the bugs are ironed out!
Mike. I thought that you would be looking for your keys in the snow
I did absolutely nothing because my arms are not long enough.
With a little long distance help from John Regan, I established my new Fordor has one of his 12v regulators and tracked down the loose connections, so now the generator shows a charge. Next step is to adjust the 3rd brush, 'cos it's charging too much.
After doing all that, I looked down to see the RH front tyre is flat as a pancake - next job!
Fred, I found the keys!!!!! And I don't remember who it was that said they'd be in the last place I looked but they were right! They now look like the keys for the restroom at a Quik Trip with that big old board chained to them. The weather is a lot nicer today. At 7:52 AM it's -19 F with a 6mph wind. Puts the windchill at -34 F. I can't wait to go to the beach.
-34F . . . LOL that doens't really even register for me. Anything under 40F is COLD. Under 20F is RIDICULOUS. I don't really have anything for below 0 as I've never experienced that.
At -34F can you spit or pee in the air and it freeze before it hits the ground? Granted - for that latter part I can't imagine getting exposed enough to conduct that experiment.
Replaced fan hub bushings, fan shaft, on the '27 roadster. think next week I will re-condition vaporizer so I can get rid of the aftermarket one that requires a fuel pump.
I adjusted the reverse band and I'm going to recharge the magneto on my '26 Roadster.
Got the fuel door on my rear-end/fuel tank compartment fitted yesterday. Works great, though I'm still planning to install a recessed pull handle. Too darn cold to do much today...
Opened up another rear axle looking for parts. Not looking good here.
Steve,what do you need?
Spider. The one I have is usable, but I'll use a better one if I find it. All these rear axles and housings have been sitting on my trailer since September when I bought them to keep a scrapper from getting them. I decided now is the time to get them off of there and see what's in them. Some of them are junk, like this one, but I've found a few good parts.
Didn't do nothing on the T's today. Its just to cold to stay in the workshop. Just bought an other coil ring for $41.00 . Need to warm up so I can return to the workshop so i spend less money.
Steve I wonder how you clean your bolts that bright?? Steel brush and elbow grease??
I have a bunch of spiders,holler if you need one.
I just finished my coils now if it gets above 40 anytime soon I might be able to start the 26 up
Finished fitting a scat crank.
Installed my seat frame and did some body work. Hoping to have the primer and filler work done very soon. Paint done on the body by the end of February, if I'm lucky. Deadline's really getting close.
Looked at the '27 and wished Winter was over........
Had a Wonderful ride on Sunday. My dear friend Marty and his Lady Christy were leading the way in Tillie, Martys 1915 Touring while I putted along behind in Annie, my somewhat newly acquired 1916 Touring. No salt on the road as it was too cold for it to work anyway.
Patrick, there's something fun about a T on snow.
Drained the coolant on the For Sale TT Enclosed Cab truck. Can't do much more as the entire right hand/arm is in a cast from surgery. Removed all head bolts from the '26 tudor before surgery and today looked at the new head gasket lying on the front fender.
Rich, It was an incredible experience to say the least. I am a relative newbie. I have been hanging around with a friend who has "T"'s and other "well seasoned" cars for years. I finally decided it was time to throw my hat into the ring. This was a test run after rebuilding the NH carb and coil box as well as replacing the wiring harness and plug/mag wires. She ran well, but still needs a few tweaks. Of course, after each new tweak I will need to take her on another test run. :-)
Found these nice, NOS top irons for my '16 Touring and just got them back from the powdercote guy. Now that I put the pins in, they sure look nice! Can't wait till warmer weather to put them on.
George,I am glad you are on the mend. I'd hate to have to set next to you at Chickasha and cut your meat up so you don't starve.
Still painting the 27 Sport Touring. Spent 1 hour getting the stuff rounded up for sandblasting both running boards, the replacement wishbone, and the spare tire carrier, (4 parts) Then set up the saw horses and plywood for the table to blast them on. Bad back so I do not bend over very well. Then I drug out the big 200 lb sandblast pot. and loaded a 90 lb bag of black beauty in it. Then I strung out 100 foot of 3/4 inch supply hose to connect it to "big bertha compressor" Then it took another hour of putting in fuel, checking oil, installing a battery, ect and trying to get it started after setting 6 months. (It was about 34 degrees so it was cantankerous) Then I doned all the protective clothing, dust masks and hood. 10 minutes later I was done. Nice clean white blasted parts. Put the parts in the shop because there was a 30% chance of rain or snow. After another hour of putting all the stuff back, Im really done with the 4 parts ..... I need a nap ...
Donnie, as much old stuff as you deal with, you might be on the lookout for a big blasting cabinet--makes life simpler! I got one years ago and , even though it was nearly $2K at the time, have never regretted it. I got it big enough to do wire wheels easily, with either/both ends that open in case you need to do a front axle or splash aprons. Nice to be able to do the occassional small part without all the "get ready" time. Warning to others: requires good 2-stage air compressor.
Just started the rebuild of a set of demountable wheels.
Took them apart and look what I found. Three normal felloes and one different. Think this will become a wall hanger, I will change it in one as the three others.
Just started the rebuild of a set of demountable wheels.
Took them apart and look what I found. Three normal felloes and one different. Think this will become a wall hanger, I will change it in one as the three others.
Mike I do have a big blast cabinet. All the parts would fit in it OK but for me it seems to be harder to roll the stuff around inside the cabinet. I have a big Ingersall Rand 2 stage compressor that runs it well. Big Bertha is also an Ingersall Rand, and it is a rotary screw 185 CFM monster. I also chose to use Big Bertha this time because it had been 6 months since it ran, so It needed a good workout anyway ... The main reason I do not do the big, dirty, heavily painted, items in the blast cabinet is it tends to contaminate my glass beads quicker.... And I also needed something to "whine and snivel" about ...
Andre : On our 1923 Roadster I have also one felloe , the same as you, no problem.
To day ; for our frind Dirk Regter I had to straightening his rear axle. He had an accident with his 1915 some years ago. THANKS to the Rocky Mountain Brakes he drove backwards in an ravine.
I did nothing but my son replaced the starter switch. Now I can drive it on the breakfast tour this Sunday.
Finished dismantling the rear axle from Hell and brought in the next one from the pile in the yard.
I haven't been in the shop much lately, but spent some time there this past weekend. I took a rear end apart a while back and tossed the bearings, etc., in my bucket of solvent. I fished them out and measured them, and I got lucky. Two of the Hyatts were worn only 2 thou, and one was 3. The 4th one was completely worn out, measuring 15 thou under. You can see the wear on the one on the left, even without a micrometer!
Unfortunately, the sleeves were not hardened.
I don't know how they got scraped up like that on the outside, unless they were turning inside the housings.
And I finally got started working on the "new" body for my T. I sold the green Huckster body after I got the vehicle all restored, so I'm ahead on this car, having the chassis finished already.
I fitted the door, hinge, latch, and striker on Saturday. It felt great to be finally getting started on this project. I have a lot of work to do between now and our tour in July!
We went on a tour this weekend and my normally reliable 1914 Touring broke down and ended up on the trouble trailer.
The float had developed a leak, tested it by placing in hot water and looked, and found bubbles, from the seam. When in the car it would run fine but after about 3-5 minutes the float would sink and the carb flood. This caused very rough running. Just lucky to have a new spare in the barn and it now runs much better.
I guess I could heat the float and re-solder, not sure it is worth the effort?
With new floats at $15 plus shipping, a little solder sounds good.
If its a newer NH or Kingston I would just look for another float. If you fix your float drill a small hole in the top to vent the gas fumes and make sure it as dry inside as it can be.
While I will not recommend this; I have drilled a small hole and after shaking as much gas out I set the float on a light bulb to evaporate the remaining fuel. I have also lit the the vapors coming out, when the flames go out there are almost no vapors left inside. So far no "BOOM" from an exploding float! MA-HA-HA wicked fun!
Set the engine down on the floor from the stand so i can install the starter and the three pan bolts, later this afternoon i will set it in the car, this is the engine from my 24 that the magnets came loose and did some damage.I am planning on taking it to OK for the Summer tour.
George, I read your post and the one from Jack. I will stay away from you at Chickasha as it sounds like you might need all kinds of help. I am going to look a parts for T's, not baby sit.
LOL Mark, I blew up an NH float trying to get everything out of it. It literally exploded and jumped up in the air and then made a pinging sound as it bounced around on the floor. It was SO LOUD. If you've ever shot a handgun inside it was about like that, made my ears ring a little.
Believe it or not it made my wife wet her pants when it went off with a "BANG!!" in the kitchen.
For a split second I was slightly annoyed I had gotten it too hot and ruined it (cussword) but my annoyance was quickly overcome with hilarity when I processed how badly she had flinched and that she was now FURIOUS - didn't help that I was crying from laughing so hard. And THEN I saw the dark spot on her pants. I thought I would have to go to the hospital I was laughing so hard, my abs and sides were killing me.
It wasn't until that night that I could even look at the remains of the float without laughing, and a good 3 days before I stopped randomly giggling whenever I thought about it.
The best part was the look on her face when she was yelling/asking me "WHAT WAS THAT?!? WHY ARE YOU BLOWING STUFF UP IN THE KITCHEN!!!!?????"
Here is a picture of my spruced up tire pump that I finished up yesterday. The make is Bridgeport, and it is decoration only. The square nuts I made from some round stock....I needed some 1/2 inch hex stock to make it right.......when I get some down the road I will make a couple. I did buy a 1/4-24 tap for the project......
Robert,your pump was an Orange color on the base ,originally. Chevy Moly-Orange is a good match.
Jack thanks for the heads up on color....do you know if the Bridgeport pump was used in the early tool kits?........1913
Jack is Chevy Moly-Orange , the same as Seymor Chevy engine orange?
got the VIN verified today! next stop DMV.....wish me luck
Aligning tail shaft.
Hope it is this good when I get the mag gap done.
Less than one thousandth run out.
Gorgeous tire pump!!!!!!
I just got the body in for the 26 roadster. Can anyone tell me how to remove the cowl from the subframe because I have a really nice cowl to replace it with.
Spencer , the cowl and the subframe is welded together so you'll have to drill out any spot welds and maybe cut some metal to separate them. (Most of the ones we find today may separate without much grinding, it's one of the many rust prone areas of the 26/27 open bodies)
I got the hinges unstuck of an old rusty '26/'27 hood last night. The oxy/acetylene weld is great, lots of heat needed at the hinges, though. My good hood for the pickup project was destroyed by the sand blasting guy Wire wheeled the now unstuck replacement, was finished at 1.30 in the morning
I just spent a small fortune on parts! New cam, valves, springs, keepers, reamer, valve spring compressor, head gasket, this mess is expensive.
Was the base painted orange on all the double barrel Bridgeport pumps?
All I did was plow snow today in my driveway and my 87 y.o. neighbor guy. Three times! Damn wind! One of his driveways is about 200 feet leading into the "barnyard" vehicle area, very large, very drifty.
Good to help an old guy out.
I can't speak for all of them but this one had an orange base. Steel tubes brass plated and the remains of black paint. I assume this to be original.
i drilled out the pins holding the brake pedal on the shaft.
Then i read this & was quite disturbed at how your "junk" axles are in better shape than the swamp find one i bought at a swap meet for $80.
Getting my iron case Warford ready to install.
Still can't get the top on.
Holes are about 1/4" off toward the front.
I went out to the shop, lit the stove, had a cup of coffee and a smoke, looked at the Snowmobile ,the Snow Bird and the Pie Wagon. looked at the out side temp. (6 30 pm) was 21Deg.
so I went back in side the house. I prefer it when it warmer and raining.
(Old and Cold)
Yeah Bob...I'm with you.
Screw this winter crap.
I'm ready for spring.
Spencer, I had a closer look at the cowl/subframe interface on a cut off improved cowl I have. It's riveted, no welds I could see. The lower edge of the cowl sheet metal is folded in, may have to be bent out a little to pull the cowl off.
Made a rough plywood firewall for the pickup project. My garage is partly dug into the ground so temperature rarely goes below freezing even without heating. If I keep working it's OK
Installed a used steering column support bracket in my '26. Now I can drive the car without the column bouncing up and down! I need to find a source for proper looking screws to hold it in, but that can wait until I take the car apart to paint it at the end of the year... I want a good touring year with her first.
Nice pictures of the un touched Bridgeport tire pump. I plan to make new attach nuts as the square ones I made are not correct. I e-mailed Jack Daron and he said chevy engine orange is close to the the original orange base color.
Nice tire pumps.
I just finished to assemble the wheels I start to rebuild before. Up to the 1924 engine now.
Just painted the base on my Bridgeport brass pump. I used what everyone said to use - Chevy orange. The lighting is not great in the photo, but in person, it looks pretty good!
There are several different models of the double tire pumps around. Some of the barrels are steel/plated brass and some are all brass. They do clean up nice and make a good display.Bill,yours is a very nice pump.
Nice job Bill E. I hadn't seen one with the tag on the handle. Always learning.
Restoring a 1926 Coupe - I have made a little progress, and today took a few pictures. The engine is about complete with new valves and valve springs. Pistons were good, new rings. Painting the engine a green color that is close to original Ford engine color. Frame is primed, and some of the front end is now painted black. No work on the body or body parts, most are still in the barn loft just waiting.
Thought about the T in the garage and the Lazy Boy in the living room. With snow on the drive and the temp in the teens, the recliner won as did Dragnet, Adam 12 and the Rifleman. Guess I am a fickle T owner. O'well, spring is not that far away.
Looked at it 80 degrees this past weekend couldn't work on it while I was driving it today its 49 degrees too cold and wet for painting.
Donald don't let Royce see that water pump!
Finished fabricating the wires and loom for my Bosch DU 4 setup; restoring the unique Bosch ignition cluster/amp gauge that goes with it; next will be how to adapt the switch to T wiring in combination with this magneto, and fabricating the associated wiring harness to go with it. I have to modify the switch a bit to isolate the ground circuit from all the battery driven items, as this switch is intended for a dual system
Thanks Roger ,I won't be working on the body til saturday because its too cold.
G.R. -- I was going to ask him what that odd-looking thing was on the left side of his engine, until I saw your post.
I went to the shop after feeding this morning, it was -20 out. I walked into the shop and it felt warm so I checked the temp. it was +1. Both T's and the shop cat were still there and alive. Went to town and looked at a rifle, the rig was 70* all day.
Took my extra 13 block to a cast iron welder to repair a freeze crack in the water jacket. Once the block is back....time to order a Scat crankshaft and build a replacement engine for our 13 touring.
The engine in our 13 touring is still running strong after 14yrs. with the early style crankshaft....it's not if it will break but "when" that has me worried.
What clearance problems will I have using the early 3 dip tea cup pan with a Scat crankshaft? I have put together an early engine with a Scat crankshaft before but that engine had a 4 dip pan. The rear counter balance did not hit/strike the pan or inspection cover reinforcements on that engine.
Nothing, it was -33 degrees this morning with a few reports as low as -38 just outside of town. It's -30F right now so it may be even colder in the morning. I'm over this global warming.
Finished the hogshead..
Think the inspection cover screws need to be black though...
Installed Stipe 280 cam. Reamed all but #4 exhaust valve guide, and have cut fresh valve seats for #1 and #2. This all by hand work is WORK. Stainless steel valves look good. Hopefully will finish today, get everything back together over the next few days and be driving with even more power next week!!
I didn't do much on my T today. I only visit my new born second grandson. Mammy, Daddy and Grandparents are very proud. Grandson is Ok too.
Congratulations Andre. He will be driving the T in no time.
I am changing the bands on my Tudor today. It's a lot more work than I was expecting. I ended up having to remove the exhaust.
Some of the gear teeth look a bit ratty but I guess they have been like that since the car was done up in 1962. I couldn't see any cracks in the external surfaces of the drums.
Hopefully it goes back together without any dramas.
i cannot figure out how it took me 3 months to change the bands, The silicon sealer i was using set hard while i was trying to put the hoghead thing back on so i scraped it off and put down some fresh stuff, Set hard while trying to put it together so i scraped it off and started again. Use up entire tube of sealer so buy more. Repeat removal and replacement over and over because the hogshead never was small enough to fit anyway. Give up at end of day and try again tomorrow.
Repeat process forever.
And 4 hours to put the universal joint pin in. Maybe i am too old.
I reset the generator with the help of the Coilman
Thank you Ron
To cold to do anything in Illinois,no heat in garage but I'm enjoying my original AUTOWA fold out brochure and original Ottawa Body Company letter head I won on ebay.
This morning I went to the Flanders Classic Car swap meet in Ghent. This evening I made an inventory of the coil rings I had to rebuild. One oval double stack and one round double stack.
Painted this. All reproduction parts too.
Unloaded another 25 Roadster I bought yesterday. Dan
Got it running! Over the past few Saturdays I've installed domed pistons, had the rods and pistons balanced and lapped the valves. I did not remove the engine from the car. Choked it a few times and it fired right up and ran smooth. Next week is the test drive, then drive it home. Only issue was a nose bleed from the NH carb, but I've got n RF and an OF rebuilt by Stan and will put one on it.... Just have to decide which one....
I pulled the water pump and installed the stock set up. Will change the oil this afternoon.
Les, I have just put a Scat Crank in a 1923 block and pan. The rear counter balance will touch the "Ü" iron that the cover bolts screw into. My solution is to cut the "U" into two parts and weld a stud in the rear most hole. It worked on the speedster so I know it holds up.
The 14 uses a 26/7 pan with no interference.
Who did your cast iron welding?
Finished putting new King Pins and bushings in the drag link. Put shims in all the ball sockets and re-assembled the steering, greasing (new) everything along the way.
I haven't done a dang thing! Too busy thinking about Tyrone Thomas' previous post. Oh well, I'll have to get over it and start gathering things up for Chickasha, if I'm going to leave next Tuesday.
Sanded the wood body parts down. Getting ready for paint!
In the morning I put oil, grease, gas and water where it should be. This afternoon we made a Sunday afternoon drive and get ICECREAM.
Today I installed new brass soft (?) plugs in my block, as the steel ones put there 25 years ago were leaking.
When I removed the manifolds the old gaskets were sorta blocking the ports, I thought it a bad install
but after putting on the steel rings w/ copper oring gaskets, the manifold is end-port 2 end-port is about 1/8" shorter than the block port openings. Maybe i b having a shrunken manifold problem?? Whatever, I will get the flat gaskets 2 get'er back on da road
Maybe headers and dragpipes are in order, or not!
Just realized that this forum sorta has autocorrect, as the message is not the same as the preview. So the grammer is not always a function of our input or age
I removed the new fenders, splash aprons, and running boards to ready for paint. I will be painting these parts and reinstalling by the end of the week. Once reinstalled I will be ready for the road. Weather to be dry and ready for nice run in my new 1912 Torpedo. This will be the 1st time I have driven this car, so I will be interested in how it performs. Gonna be a busy week.
Drove by mine on the way to a movie. It's sitting under an overhanging porch outside of a building where the owner sells pumpkins every Autumn. He left it out this year so I could pick it up but I never got the time. 3 ft. deep snow 200 ft. between the T and the locked gates. It's out of the weather.
Cool setup. Have never seen the Bosch Ignition switch before...thanks for showing...
It got up to 52º here today and I really NEEDED to start the cars.
They all started as if they had been run this morning.
It was a very good day.......
Update on the above situation.
My exhaust manifold is warped so much I can hardly believe it.
The rear port has sagged down about 3/8".
Must have been that way when it was last installed.
Ordered a new one 2day
Started getting parts ready to load for Chickasha.
Unloaded stuff from a Labor Day auction.
Well, I finally got the Ruckstell housing back from powder coating and finished up cleaning the parts and now ready for Mr. Cook to teach me how to rebuild it. I have my Disc Brake kit in and when we are finished building the Ruckstell and I finish the installation I will begin the Disc brakes.... hopefully these two items will finish all that I intend to change on my 26 Tudor.... It runs strong, very strong and the Ruckstell and Disc brakes will finish all the improvements I have wanted to do... A great car thanks to all the work help and advise Mr. Cook has provided me with..."TN T's" a great club,good friends, an a honor to be a part of ...Chet
Not on them but for them. I fired them up and cleaned there bed room. here's a couple of pictures of them getting some sun, they were happy and ran well.
What's the rush? LOL
I went through my parts in my small 10x30 storage and using a legal pad filled over three pages with parts which I will price out while my relief driver is driving to OK. Tomorrow, I will start on my 30x60 office warehouse and hope to finish by Sunday night.
Installed my new rear spring.
Working on putting a freshly rebuilt engine in my 1927. Engine is in but now all the "other stuff" needs to be re-installed.