Worth salvaging??

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: Worth salvaging??
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Whelihan on Monday, January 27, 2014 - 11:25 am:

When I had my engine (serial #12354317) rebuilt recently, I had the rebuilder save the crankshaft hoping that it my be one of the EE variety. By the attached pics, it's obviously one of the straight side throws variety but no sign of EE stamps anywhere. The only markings on it are the Ford and Transue&Williams logos with "U" stamp. There has been some grinding here and there by the looks of the metal discoloring close to the bearing journals. The rod and main bearing journals measure out at 1.248, with at most .0005 out of round. EXCEPT the 3rd main which measures 1.39 (no out of round). The scoring on the journals is minimal and only can be felt by running your fingernail along them.

It passed the 'ring test' well, and I am wondering if it is worth having it magnafluxed and the journals cleaned up in the event my current T attracts a "mate" in the future. Also given the accumulated crud on the most all the engine parts and dustguards, with the exception of the pan inspection cover and the head, I am wondering if this is the original crankshaft or had been replaced?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Gruber- Spanaway, Wash. on Monday, January 27, 2014 - 11:40 am:

Are you sure the third main is .152 bigger?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John McGinnis in San Jose area, CA. on Monday, January 27, 2014 - 11:47 am:

Don't know about the 1.39? Otherwise polish up all the journals and use.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Gould on Monday, January 27, 2014 - 12:21 pm:

You probably mean 1.239. Sure its worth saving. Mains are typically rebabbited and bored to match each journal. The rod journals are very good. If it isn't cracked, its a good one.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Whelihan on Monday, January 27, 2014 - 12:46 pm:

Correction: 1.239 on the third main journal. Thanks, John.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Monday, January 27, 2014 - 02:02 pm:

Get it cracked checked, a ring test is like kicking a tire to see if a car burns oil!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Monday, January 27, 2014 - 02:06 pm:

I wouldn't throw it out even if was broken in half. The rear main and flange makes a good small face plate and the rest makes good stock for dies and tooling. It even makes good forge/furnace stock. But I'm a scrounger. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Tuesday, January 28, 2014 - 06:49 am:

Your engine is an early '26, made in september 1925. It's very likely the crank is original to the engine, it looks like what's in most engines made from the spring of '24 through 1926. EE cranks were made later on, found most often in '27 engines. Being a straight side throw crank it's better than most diamond throw, one design improvement compared to the earlier type is larger radii at the rod journals (1/8", was 1/16" on older cranks).

If you find it crack free after magnafluxing, be sure the crank grinder indexes on the flywheel flange when setting it up to grind the third main - the flywheel and trans must run straight and true in relation to the mains.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Tuesday, January 28, 2014 - 06:57 am:

But if the third main is nice and smooth, perhaps it was ground some time in the past and the block was repoured? Maybe new babbitt can be custom fit to the crank, no point in grinding off more than necessary of an already undersized crank

Model T cranks aren't beefy enough to withstand metal fatigue forever.. most will crack eventually, but hopefully not in our lifetime ;)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Whelihan on Tuesday, January 28, 2014 - 07:09 am:

Roger, thanks for the info. I replaced this crank with a SCAT counter-balanced variety. So, with this engine, I am not worried about metal fatigue affecting it in my life-time...or a couple others for that matter. I don't know if these early straight sided cranks have the same reputation for toughness compared to the EE variety. If it isn't as serviceable as the EE cranks, I would probably keep in my parts pile if someone else who can't afford a new one might need it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Joseph Geisler on Wednesday, January 29, 2014 - 06:57 pm:

Guys if you need to get a crank built up Homer Bracket use to do mine. I don't know if he is still around or the name of the company or where it use to be. South Carolina seems familiar to my mind. ??? I cannot remember things like I use to any more it seems. (?) But he submerged welded several of mine. Straightened them and you told him what to make it to (O.D.) after you had line bored (cleaned) good old original babbit still left in the block. I have had him make a few that were .003+ and .005+ years ago. So you COULD find an oversized shaft in one of your engines depending on who did it. Jess Bonar put me onto him in the mid 70's.
Joe in Mo.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Clayton Swanson on Wednesday, January 29, 2014 - 10:39 pm:

joseph brings up a good point. the crank shop near me does nice work on t's and a's, and they also spray weld up bad cranks. not sure what it cost, but whats the viewpoint here as to if it makes a crank more brittle, or other bad effects from the weld


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Whelihan on Thursday, January 30, 2014 - 08:13 am:

Thanks for all the feedback. Right now I probably need to spend a few bucks and get it magnafluxed for cracks, then make a decision if I want to have it cleaned up right away or store it for the future and do it when needed.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By J and M Machine Co Inc on Thursday, January 30, 2014 - 09:14 am:

Looks like normal wear to me after almost 100 years.
I would recommend you magnaflux it and then straighten and grind it.

Not everyone can afford a new crank.

http://www.jandm-machine.com/crankshaftWelding.html


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