I noticed that the rubber tip on my NH float valve has a groove in it so I was going to order a new one from a vendor. I see they have the rubber tipped ones and a new steel/brass type. Has anyone had better luck with these? They are only about $2.00 more than the rubber tipped ones.
The new ones that have just recently come out, both the NH style and the G style, and which are probably the ones you're looking at, aren't steel; they're nickel, which is what Ford used.
G? Good, it's about time.
RV makes the hard-tipped (original style) ones for the G, and Larry Smith makes them for the NH. Both are top quality and are sold through Lang's. I don't know what the other vendors carry.
That's interesting but the Snyder's catalog says steel needle and brass seat. It's not listed next to the other rubber tipped type but later in the same section of the 2013 catalog.
I think I'll try one unless I hear something negative about them.
A steel needle sounds like a spectacularly bad idea considering that modern gasoline contains ethanol which causes rapid corrosion of steel parts.
Snyder's online catalog says "stainless steel" but it's actually nickel, which is considerably better.
I have one in my NH on my '26 Touring now. Had a Gross-Jet in it before I rebuilt it and it leaked like a sieve. No drips now.
It is easier to replace needles than seats. I'll stick with rubber tip. Previous experience with steel needles in BMW motorcycles causes deformation of the seat from the steel needle requiring replacement of both the needle and seat. With the rubber tip, the needle wears and the seat remains in good condition.
Thanks to all of you. I'll order one tomorrow. I had a Gross-Jet too and it worked well for years until they started putting ethanol in our gas and then started sticking and leaking. I replaced it with another Gross-Jet and it did the same thing. This rubber tipped needle has worked better than the Gross-Jets but didn't last very long.
Are they solid nickel or nickel plated? If they're solid, they must be pricey. Nickel has good wear properties even if just plating. To really make them slick, infuse the nickel with Boron Nitride (hBN, COF=.15). Or for even higher tech, plate with Tungsten Disulfide infused nickel plate. WS2 is about the slickest material in the world with a COF of around .03. That's over 15 times (relative) slicker than graphite.
The needle valves are only sold with the needle and seat. I hope I don't have your experience with them. The seat is real easy to replace in an NH carb, half minute job when the carb is out.
Methinks you'll find that the "rubber" tips are actually neoprene or viton. I prefer them over the steel ones.
We Montana 500 guys like the new needle and seats made by Larry. They have the correct size hole so they don't starve out at speeds above 45 MPH. The metal NH valves are available at Ford-n-more 800-327-1469
Thanks for the kind words Tom. I've been unhappy with the needle and seat sets that used to be made, and that is why I decided to do this. I was hoping that one of the big vendors would do it, but no one ever did, and like Tom says, you hit a hill, and the gas just got sucked out of the float bowl! Why, because the old needle and seats were .100" and the originals were .125". I don't get it, and that is why I decided to do it. If you are going to reproduce something, the least you can do is do it correctly, or don't do it!