I have a 1926 Coupe that has not run for 20+ years. So far I have gone through the engine and Transmission, all looks good, and runs good. My concern is the lube oil in the rear end. Can it be drained, if so how - no drain plug?? If low on 600W oil, do I fill to the overflow, or just below overflow? Any suggestions - Do I need to break it down, even though it does appear to roll OK?
I'm very inexperienced when it comes to Ts, but I read a lot and listen to people who know more than me. And they will tell you that you will have to replace the thrust washers in your rear axle, which means tearing it down. I'm getting ready to do the same job myself.
Donald I take it you do not know the history of the "T" so if nothing else by breaking down the axel you will positively know it's condition, but if you don't have to why with the rear end on jack stands spin it and listen if you hear anything that doesn't sound normal, ok tear it apart you might want to take a heavy straw through the overflow hole and work it as close to the bottom as you can put your finger over the end and pull a sample out and filter it through a white paper towel look for any metal fragments then get advice from other t'ers in your area
Thanks - just ordered the MTFCA axle book, and will take the rear end apart soon. I have worked on other differentials, but this will be my first T, any "Do Not Do This" comments would be appreciated.
I rebuilt the diff on 16 coupelet as I was disappointed after almost a hundred years of service it was not in pristinne condition. I thought these t's lasted forever.
Donald, absolutely DO replace any Babbitt thrust washers with modern bronze type.
Here's just a friendly warning.
When you put the differential back together, MAKE SURE that you put the ring gear on the driver's side. If you put it on the passenger side, it will go together just fine, but when you try to drive your T, you'll find that you have one speed forward and two speeds in reverse!
Lots of good advice on the forum on redoing the differential - use the search function. I found the previous posts on the forum to be as helpful as the axle book.
Many of the guys here have fancy holders for the differential because its easiest to work on them in a vertical position. however a piece of 1x10 or 1x12 screwed down to your workbench with a keyhole sawn in it worked great for me.
Here's the kind of holder Bud is talking about.
I used a pair of 2 x 6 scraps bolted to the table. The price was perfect.
Take it apart. You'll be amazed just how worn out those things can be and still function. One clue of its condition might be the kind of diff. fluid it is running. The original stuff had about the same consitency as molasses on a cold day and was as black as night. The presence of lighter grade or cleaner stuff might indicate it has been done sometime in the past.
Steve If i ever get near Parkerfield I am going to take whatever detour is necessary Just to look at your shop in person It has to be an old grease monkey's dream.
Cameron Whitaker I know too well what your talking about. I did one of my proudest jobs of reassembling a differential only to find it was in backwards. Eric Bruckner I thought the bronze spacer was the norm, I looked in my 15 parts book and it lists bronze.
A look in Canadian parts books, part # 2528 diff, thrust plate, 1913 book lists as babbitt, 1917 book lists as composition and a 1923 book lists as metal.
I tag the out side housing when I do a diff so if anyone is in question much later, it tells them it now has brass thrusts.
G.R., if you mean it's a cluttered mess, you're on the right track.
David, I think the earlier thrust washers, at least some of them, were bronze. But I just took apart three post-1920 rear axles. One of the six thrust washers that should have been there was intact. There was a one-inch chunk of another one. The other four were presumably in the grease/dirt/fragments mixture. The later parts book says only "thrust washer" without specifying the material. I figure that's what we're replacing. The rear axle from my 1915 roadster had bronze washers, but I can't say they're original. I'm about to open up another early one, so we'll see what's in there.
Here is a great summation, thanks to Steve......