I had ask a question about how to find info on dump bed design on off road utv type vehicals last year.
i wont post a bunch of pics and bore you but a couple members ask to see it on the 2013 forum posting in regards to the questions I ask.
This started life here at my home as a rusted out,twisted,abused 1977 Ez-go golf cart that was stripped of it's copper wire and headed to the crusher.It was given to me.
Here is where I started.The rear of the frame was badly twisted.It was cut right behind the brake pedal,running gear saved and the rear body and frame was scrapped.It had been patched numerous times.
I added 2 feet to the wheel base of the machine and built a new frame,bed and changed the controls to between split seats,similar to a jd gator.Since this pic was took the steering wheel score card holder and such has been installed.
I have been useing it the past day or 2 and Love it except the turning radius stinks compared to my old 3 wheel carts.
The rubber has been reinstalled on the front nose since this pic was taken.
In this pic you can see the lift motor for the dump bed behind the rear axle.
This is still 36 volt resistor speed control .I intend to do a 48 volt conversion on it.There is 6 12 volt absorbed glass mat battery s for running the cart,and another for running the accessory s.
The frame is designed to accommodate 12 battery s if need be.This is just a shot I took of the wireing about mid process.
It has a a connector to plug in jumper cables to the 12 volt battery for jumping off my model T or tractors.Turn signals,park and head lights,rear work light and brake lights.12 inch tires.
In all honesty I have no idea how much time I have in the machine and aint done yet as I have to find a roof and install it.But the cost of a similar machine on the market is not cheap.It also has a Model T ford handbrake clevis on the added brake rod I had to make since I extended the length of the machine.
I hope i dont offend by posting this but like I said,a couple folks ask.
Mack that sure is cool! The only complaint I have is that you didn't go back with the 'original' pink . . . LOL.
I'm a speedster guy, and you're building this basically from scratch . . . so how fast does it go?
about 9 to 10 max. 48 volts will give it about 6-8 more mph
The speedster project is on the other side of my shop,when I get the money to rebore babbit and turn cranks and such I will get back on it.
That's some great workmanship! Really cool!
Looks like you made a silk purse out of a sow's ear. That rig will be handy to have around your place. Good going!
Looks Good, Mack.
Some thoughts on speed control. I have a 1920 Detroit Electric. It has two battery banks (of 42 volts each). It also has 6 leads coming out of the motor (two for the armature and 4 for the fields (the fields are split in two). The speed control philosophy is as follows;
Batteries in parallel and all the motor leads in series with a resistor connected (so on 42 volts). You are advised to not run more than necessary in first as you are of course wasting power with the resistor.
The same as first but without the resistor
Batteries still in parallel, but now the motor leads are also in parallel
Batteries and motor leads all in series (so running on 84 volts). For long distances this is the recommended speed (about 25 mph and potentially 70-80 miles they claim)
Batteries in series and motor leads in parallel Probably 30-35 mph but less range.
This was all controlled by a BIG drum switch under the seat. The leads are like heavy duty 6 volt starter cable. Generally you draw less than 70 amps (certainly try to avoid drawing more)
Now there are sophisticated electronic controls, but you may want to consider something of this type because you could build it yourself!!
Yes I think the pink would have been better too!!!
Would sure be nice for yard work Mac. Good job.
Les, i think you pretty well explained how the 62 model works that I picked up a few weeks ago.6 solenoids and a host of micro switchs in a box.
I use these old resistor carts because they are reliable but cheap to maintain.Curtis controllers are expensive when they fail.Thanks for the compliments.I spent a good bit of the past 4 months on this thing.I loaded it down with firewood yesterday twice and it didnt notice the load when pulling hills so it is going to work fine.Just give me 40 acres and I will turn this rig around as the song says :>)
Mac with all those batteries, is it possible to wire it in order to zap the magnets on a T mag?
that is how I got the mag on my TT working.I used my other golf cart and a set of jumper cables.Worked like a champ.36 volts works well for that.
Looks great Mack. I have a Club Car electric [36v] and it gets used nearly everyday around here. Even in the winter some years, but right now it's buried under 2 feet of snow. Thanks for posting pictures of your project, you are a fine craftsman. Jim Derocher, AuGres, Michigan
Your secret is out !
You just wanted something to carry your Mountain Dew in.
I've grown up playing golf and it's amazing to me that the EZ-Go center console has been EXACTLY the same apparently forever. 4 drink holders, 7 holes for tees, and two slots for balls.
I saw the same thing when my dad and I restored a '65 Mustang GT: the lone speaker in the center of the dash was virtually identical to the speakers I pulled out of my '98 F-150. The materials may have been slightly upgraded, but the shape and construction were identical. I guess if it isn't broke, don't fix it.
Well the body is 77 the drink holder with 4 holes was 90-94 I think.I got it from a junked 93 model for 5 bucks.
I also put the 2 factory 1's back on as well but 1 is in the center between the seats in front of the switches.
The Marathon design like this started in 65. The model 400 like I picked up a few weeks ago was the last tiller steer 1 in 64.