I am working on a rebuild of my 1915 model t transmission and was slowly filing down the serrated bumps on the brake drum lugs.
My question is, has anyone come up with a good method to adapt the 1926-27 lug shoes ( T-3312) to the old style brake drum? Joe
I filed off the clutch disc marks on my narrow brake drum in just about an hour with a new square file, but maybe you've got deeper marks than I had.
The fastening screws for the driving plate goes into the lugs on the pre improved brake drums. To adopt the 26/27 lug shoes you'll have to file the lugs so thin there's a risk for breaking.
There are narrow brake drums made by Ford with lugs but they're rare. They were likely sold after the introduction of the improved models as spares for the older cars.
You can use an improved brake drum together with its driving plate and clutch discs in an older trans, just use a narrow brake band. You may cut off the excess braking surface in a lathe, but I'm not sure if it's really needed? Ok, the wide brake band won't fit in an older oil pan (with the 26/27 hogshead) but maybe just the wide drum will fit in a 1915 pan?
Should have read: "There are narrow brake drums made by Ford with lug shoes"..
The drums with lug shoes are mounted in a different place than those without them. A '26 drum can be narrowed down to the early pattern, just be sure to get the step in the drum when you do it.`
Late 25's had a narrow brake drum with the lugs. I have a complete trans that is like new that I am going to use in my 14
If you get a wide 26-27 drum to cut down check the mounting holes for the drive plate as they were moved in board and are closer to the inside edge and prone to cracking.
One of the reasons I raised the question of the feasibility of installing lugs on a pre 1925 brake drum is this:
On page 17 of the MTFCA Transmission Repair & Restore Book it states " One way to save an earlier brake drum with deep grooves, is to machine the lugs until they are the same size as the 1925-26 lugs--than use the steel shoes"
So, has anyone done this? If so what method was used to machine the lugs and keep all lugs in proper index? I too wondered about the strength factor around the bolt holes.
By the way, I did file down the grooves on mine with a square file--not a bad job at all.
If you use a cut back 26-7 drum, know that the driving plate and clutch ring are also different.
Joe, it makes the lugs too thin at the bolt holes and it appears they'd break off easy. I had one done that way and never used it. A good used drum should be easy to find. I should have one available. Contact me offline if I can help.
There is no need to cut down the late drum to use in an earlier car. (Okay, maybe a REALLY early pan) It is the brake BAND for which the pan and hogshead need the extra space. I have run the longer drum and talked to several other people that have with no problems from it whatsoever.
If you use the larger brake, then you must use the late hogshead in order to center the wide band onto the larger drum. THEN you also need a pan that provides extra space for the band to clear the drum. However, if all you want is the better clutch (it isn't much better) or to use the drum you have that happens to be the larger drum. And if you intend to use the earlier brake and hogshead (proper vintage aesthetics?). There simply is no need to cut the later/larger drum. (I have even checked the clearance on all four narrow-nose pans I have used, plenty of room for the drum)
Just me ranting again.
Don't mind me. I am only slightly crazy. They even let me out of my cage occasionally.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Quote"My question is, has anyone come up with a good method to adapt the 1926-27 lug shoes ( T-3312) to the old style brake drum? Joe"
Yes we have.
Now that is a GOOD looking drum. Lugs have been relocated and are strong. Should last 100 years or more.
Thanks again everyone for the input. Joe