After shoveling 200' of 4" of snow - yea - snow in Seattle - WTF - %#$&^** - I got the speedo drive & head (Furstnow job) mounted and working perfect, wheels & tanks bolted on - hose basket last piece on the list for fabricating then ready for paint !
Steve, I plowed 5" of snow today and didn't do anything to the T's. Too cold.
I can get the back shop pretty toasty with the wood stove & stack blower !
Steve, how bout some pictures of your disk wheels, never have I seen any with 4 bolt holes. J
Went out and looked at the snow, and the shop where the T's are then went back to do other things in the warm house.
You see what I saw.
Just gathered up some Early Bird Swap meet parts. Need to get busy marking them.
Steve... The Fire Truck is coming along!
I worked on the "other" old car. Is there any thing worse than finding out on Sunday that you need a 21/32 socket? I own one and can't find it. Oh well, I bet I can find one at Sears or Harbor Freight tomorrow!
I spent the day chasing threads on nuts and bolts in preparation of reinstalling the motor in my 1912 unrestored touring. All necessary parts are at the ready for the install this week.
Finished the work required to install the new coil pack and install the pick up in the timer.
Finally got all the nuts off the running board bolts and chased those threads all well. Removed the acorn nuts from the brass radiator tank that took some doing, pesky little squirrels.
It was warm and toasty in my shop, keep the temp at 69 year around, for free, using a high tech used motor oil furnace, working in a T shirt. It actually takes less oil to maintain the constant temperature than to turn it off and then try and heat up all the machine tools and iron in the shop.
The disc wheels are Michelin - Budd. They use a regular Ford front & rear hub bolted to the special Michelin hub. Unfortunately, a little hard to find as I need to locate another for a mounted spare - anybody ??? They are left & right hand threaded studs.
Today's project was measuring and tagging Hyatt bearings.
After I measure and tag them, I soak them in motor oil and seal them in snack bags.
BrassCarGuy I'm still waiting on my 2 Firestone 30 x 3 1/2 New blkwall tires you sold me and I pd for 7-20-13, please ship them and I'll send the shipping balance quickly back to you email@example.com
Unloaded a bunch of parts I picked up last Friday. A set of 4 good 1926-7 mudguards, a set of no name roadster hood irons with excellent bows, a set of very nice socket type hood irons for the barn find car I discovered last November, an as new 4.40 x 23" straight side tyre and rim which was bolted on to a 23" Ford wheel. It is the same Olympic brand as the BE tyres on my tourer, so I can wear it out with them. Included was the first ever Stewart speedo with the moulded in numbers on the tumblers that I have seen in Australia. While the swivel looks a little moth eaten with pitting in the pot metal, I had it apart today to clean it up, and found very little wear in the gears, so it is a keeper.
Allan from down under.
Found a shorter thread to post in - the other one is getting long and slow to load.
I've had some fun learning to mill at a friends workshop. I was a bit disappointed when I bought a Prus head when they first became available advertised as 8:1 in compression ratio - when it arrived it measured about 210 cc in the combustion chambers, giving about 5:1 in reality. So I planed some thick bolts for support, clamped the head with bolts through the spark plug holes and milled off 0.100", hoping it'll hold up.. Now it measures about 185 cc in the combustion chambers, giving 5.8:1 in compression = not too much for a std bottom end, I think.
No matter how slow I turned the feeder screw my buddy's old cutter left a less than perfect surface, so I spent some time sanding the head on a flat glass window..
My son Oskar kindly lent me some modelling clay to check so I had calculated the distance to the pistons right
I had planned to mill the head when I first installed the pistons - they're also milled 0.060" to go clear from the squish areas in the head. Easier to mill the pistons than milling into the combustion chambers.
The studs are Model A, the longer ones used where the A has a clamp for some wire. I should have bought even longer ones, miscalculated that length & had to mill the head 0.060 with a 1" diameter cutter on the upper side around the bolt holes to get the nuts with washers to fit..
Didn't really do any TO the Tudor except add a little oil and give it some exercise today.
I managed to get a photo op at the machine shop though.......